Author Archives: Greg

Day 10 – Exploring Singapore

Wednesday, July 12, 2023 – Our Singapore day started with a visit to the original Ya Kun Kaya Toast for breakfast. This location originally opened in 1944, serving its thinly sliced Kaya toast for almost 80 years. It now has locations throughout Southeast Asia, including some airports. Kaya toast is a very is white bread dipped in a sweet sauce before toasting and is a very traditional Singaporean breakfast.You can order your Kaya toast with butter or peanut butter, and with or without a soft boiled egg. Karen enjoyed her toast with butter and kopi (Singaporean coffee with sweetened condensed milk) while Greg had peanut butter with his toast and an iced Thai tea. There was a line out the door of the restaurant the entire time we were there. It appears that this inexpensive breakfast continues to be quite popular.

From there we walked through Chinatown, stopping by the Thian Hock Keng temple. We observed the beauty of this Chinese temple and threw a couple of coins in the wishing well for good luck.

We were struck by the architecture throughout Singapore both old and new. The older buildings show the British influence with rows of three story buildings with shutters on the windows. And the new modern architecture is really inventive, unique and striking.

Our self guided walking tour took us to Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore built in 1827. In addition to being a strong place of support for Indian immigrants it is well known for its annual fire walking ceremony held each October or November where devotees are asked to walk across hot coals as a sign of their faith.

Our walk then took us to the Buddha Tooth Relic temple where, you guessed it, they have a Buddha Tooth Relic along with a number of other relics and artifacts. There is a beautiful garden on the rooftop along with a prayer wheel that you can walk with in saying your prayers. We were grateful to be able to spend some time looking at exhibits in an air conditioned space.

A trip on the subway took us for a quick visit to Little India. While there we walked through some street markets and made a visit to the colorful house of Tan Teng Niah. Built in 1900, it is the last surviving Chinese villa in Little India. The house was originally built to house a small business making sweets from sugar cane. In back of the building the business also made rubber which is a by-product from processing the sugarcane.

After getting some lunch we headed back to the hotel, gathered our carry-on bags and headed to the airport for the final leg of our flight to Bali. With a little time to explore the Singapore airport we discovered “the Jewel”, a large oval shaped building adjacent to the airport that contains shopping and a large internal garden with an incredible fountain that rains down from a circular opening in the ceiling. We were only able to glimpse the Jewel from a railway connector between terminals that passes through the Jewel. We learned that to go into the Jewel you would need to exit the airport, go through immigration, and then return through security to come back into the airport. The airport only recommends making the visit if you have at least a 5 hour layover. Since we learned about it on our way out of Singapore we will need to wait to explore the Jewel on another trip.

This leg of our trip was our first experience on Singapore Airlines. We were quite impressed. It was quite nice that each flight included wine, beer, soft drinks and a meal, even in economy seats.

With an evening arrival to Bali we could not see much on our way to the beachside resort. One additional bonus for Karen who made all of our travel plans was that our driver held up a sign with her name on it.

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Day 9 – From Chiang Mai to Singapore

Tuesday, July 11, 2023 – Today was a travel day as we made our way to Bali for the second half of our Southeast Asia vacation. As part of our flight plan we scheduled a 20 hour layover in Singapore to give us an opportunity to explore and experience a new city.

With a late afternoon departure we had some time to walk around Chiang Mai one last time to see one of the old city gates, do some shopping, and grab another iced Thai tea.

We arrived in Singapore around 8:00 pm after a three hour flight from Chiang Mai. Fortunately this was only a one hour time change, so no adjustment was necessary. While our luggage remained checked through to Bali, we rushed out of the airport with just our carry-on bags to see the 9:00 pm nightly water and light show in front of the Marina Bay Sands casino. Karen read that the best place to see it is from Level 33, a craft brewery on the 33rd floor of a business building. After the fact we realized that being 33 floors up to see a water and light show that is only 4 stories high requires you to be sitting at the edge of the outdoor seating. So this was a planning fail – we did not see the water and light show but we were able to have a late light dinner while sampling a beer at the “world’s highest urban microbrewery.”

While there we took in the magnificent view of the Singapore night skyline. Then we checked in and dropped off our bags at the nearby Singapore Westin and headed out for a walk to explore the Marina Bay area and see the Singapore Merlion. After a day of walking and traveling we were quite tired, but planned an early morning to get up and explore Singapore before resuming our trip to Bali.

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Day 8 – Happy Elephant Home, a day we will not forget.

Making some new friends

Monday, July 10, 2023 – One of our main reasons for traveling to Chiang Mai was to go to an elephant preserve. Although they only host and take care of 4 elephants, our day at the Happy Elephant Home was amazing.

@HappyElephantHome is about an hour outside of Chiang Mai. We were picked up at our hotel and transported with several other people to Happy Elephant Home.  Along the way we passed several other elephant preserves. Unfortunately, there are many places that still mistreat elephants today. In some cases the elephants were not abused, but not able to be cared for when the owner lost work during the pandemic. Happy Elephant Home has tried to buy additional elephants, but the price can be 2 Million Thai Baht or more.

When we arrived we were given our “Karen clothes” for the day: one size fits all loose pants and a shirt to put over our bathing suits so we won’t get our own clothes dirty. Then out to the elephants with a shoulder bag full of bananas. All of the visitors for the day (17 for the morning) were divided into four groups. We had an opportunity to meet, feed, and get to know each of the four elephants. Elephants love bananas!

After providing the elephants with their morning snack, we led them on a walk down to the river where they could cool off and bathe. Karen got in on the action with her bucket. After a rocky entrance into the river she had fun helping to give an elephant a bath.

We then took another casual walk back to Happy Home (elephants take their time walking) where the elephants could graze while we had our lunch.

Several members of the group left after lunch, but we stayed for the full day experience. One of the elephants at Elephants Happy Home is a little undernourished so our afternoon started with making a mixture of bananas, corn powder, and salt. After smashing these ingredients together with a lever mortar and pestle, we took handfuls to make large “meatballs” that we could feed to this elephant. The trick was to hold the food up to the elephants eye so she could see what you had, and then pop it right onto her open mouth.

Our last chore for the day was to lead the elephants to a big pit for an afternoon mud bath. Fortunately, a man in our group and his 11 year old daughter volunteered to go down into the mud pit to assist with the process so the rest of us could watch and enjoy the elephants waiting their turn. Once in the mud the helpers covered the elephant bellies with mud. Some of the elephants used their trunks to throw mud and dirt on their backs. The mud acts as sunscreen and insect repellent until they bathe in the river the next day.

We thoroughly enjoyed our Happy Elephant Home experience, lifetime memories for sure. After a van ride back to the hotel (at breakneck speed…driving is very different here) we had a little down time at our hotel pool before some time at the spa and dinner.

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Day 7 – Doi Suthep-Pui National Forest & Sunday Street Market

Sunday, July 9, 2023 – This morning we set out to explore and potentially do some hiking in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Forest outside of Chiang Mai.

Our Grab driver taking us to the forest  ended up being our ride for the day. He was willing to wait an hour or two at each of our stops. I believe he appreciated the off-app fare.

Our first stop was Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a Buddhist temple that sits at the top of a mountain inside the National Park. To reach the temple you climb a large staircase with long serpent figures on both sides. The view over Chiang Mai is fantastic.

On the way down the mountain we stopped by the Montha Than Waterfall. I encourage you to listen to the video with your sound up. The sounds from the insects in the forest were astounding.

After lunch and a change of clothes we ventured into town to the Let’s Relax spa.  This time we tried an aromatherapy massage and Japanese body scrub…much more enjoyable than Thai massage in our opinion.  Massages in Thailand are very common and very inexpensive, so we took advantage of this treat often!

As if Saturday night was not enough, Chiang Mai also has a Sunday night street market that is bigger than Saturday’s. After a day of steps and walking and a relaxing massage we enjoyed a cocktail overlooking the street, grabbed some yummy food from street vendors and then did a little shopping.

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Day 6 – Jim Thompson House and Chiang Mai

Saturday, July 8, 2023 – Today we were preparing to fly to Chiang Mai. Our flight was not until the afternoon so we spent the morning taking a tour of the Jim Thompson House Museum. Jim Thompson was an American who visited Bangkok in the late 1940s while in the military and saw a tremendous opportunity to organize the production of silk. He is credited with tremendously growing the silk trade and is also known as the “Thai Silk King.”

The house was built in 1958-1959. It is a design by Mr. Thompson, a trained architect, himself. He purchased several small Thai teak houses that were disassembled, transported to Bangkok and then reassembled into his house. The grounds include some beautiful gardens and additional small homes for his wait staff.

As the silk business grew and expanded, Mr. Thompson used some of his wealth to acquire and accumulate a unique collection of artwork and sculpture that is still displayed at the House and Museum today.

Mr. Thompson also enjoyed adventures. His last trip was to Cameroon where he disappeared in 1967. Despite a large search and reward for him, he was never found. The house and the silk business is now held and run by a foundation.

The tour was very interesting and a great way to spend the morning. Off to our next adventure in Chiang Mai via a quick flight on Scoot (Singapore Airlines low cost alternative).

We arrived in Chiang Mai and easily checked into our next hotel. We were encouraged to experience the Saturday night market in the old city, so after a quick tuk tuk ride we found ourselves in the midst of a lot of activity. Streets were lined with food stalls and small tents of souvenirs and various other items. It was fun to walk around and sample a few yummy things while getting our bearings in a new city. Karen sampled the local Thai rolled ice cream and Greg thoroughly savored a mango smoothie.

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Day 5 – Foodie Day in Bangkok & the Reclining Buddha

Friday, July 7, 2023 – Ever since we started to plan our trip to Thailand we talked about sampling the local food. Today was our foodie day.

We were up and out early for a cooking class at the House of Taste cooking school. The class started with a trip to a local street market where we learned about the different ingredients we would be cooking with. After our brief lesson we had some time to explore the market and taste a few new things. This was our first opportunity to taste the infamous durian fruit. This fruit is ugly looking and has a bad smell from the outside, but the fruit inside is sweet and has the consistency of a soft cheese. We both found the fruit tasty, but not something we would eat on a regular basis. Fun fact: due to the smell, durian is banned from hotels and the metro system.

Our class of 13 people went back to the cooking school where we prepared four different classic Thai dishes. Our menu included Shrimp Pad Thai, Papaya Salad, Red Curry with Chicken and Mango Sticky Rice. After cooking we got to sit and enjoy a delicious lunch..we did a good job!

Greg making Shrimp Pad Thai
Karen making coconut milk sauce

After our cooking class we took time for one more temple. We went to Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). The Buddha is truly amazing in its size, 15m (50 ft) high and 46m (150 ft) long. One additional interesting fact about this temple is that it is considered the first public university in Thailand. The focus is on health and wellness. This includes medicine so this temle is thought to be the birthplace of Thai massage.

In the evening we continued our foodie day with a guided @WithLocals walking tour through Bangkok’s Chinatown (the largest Chinatown in the world). The streets were lined with various food vendors and small, open restaurants. Our guide, Tik, and the tour company’s summer intern Erica, shepherded us through this chaotic area. The crowds and packed streets and large lit up signs reminded us a little bit of Time’s Square in New York City.

Our first stop was to purchase Chinese fried doughnuts, though we saved them to eat last. While they cooled we got in line for soup at Nai Ek Rolled Noodle. This incredibly popular soup spot has unique rolled noodles. The pork soup was delicious despite it being really warm and humid (sweating in your soup just adds salt, right?).

Next was some coconut ice cream with shaved coconut on top. This dish was very environmentally responsible as the bowls are made from the coconuts themselves.

The next course was small fried rice cakes. These little bit-sized morsels were quite tasty. Then we tried another bite-sized appetizer that consisted of a handmade pastry cup filled with a mixture of corn, ham, and onion in some sort of cream sauce.

We did stop by and look at the fried insects and scorpions, but we both opted out of trying them.

The last stop was a quick Tuk Tuk ride away. Our guide took us to the rooftop bar at Above Riva. We enjoyed a drink, our fried doughnuts, and a spectacular nighttime view of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Great way to end the evening, and we were so happy to have a guide through this fun but overwhelming experience.

On our way to the metro station to catch a subway ride back to our hotel we walked through the flower district. Although it was getting late at night, this wholesale area was bursting with bunches of flowers waiting to be distributed or bought for the next day. There were dozens of roses available for 50 Thai baht each (about $1.50 US) The sights and smells were amazing. Another amazing day in Bangkok!

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Day 4 – Bangkok by Bicycle

Thursday, July 6, 2023 – Kelsey & Lindsey, gave us an anniversary gift of a Tinggly gift card that could be used for an excursion on our trip. We decided to use it for a day long bicycle tour of Bangkok with Amazing Bangkok Cyclist. Our small group of 5 was led on a tour of various parts of Bangkok we would have not seen otherwise. It was a great way to see the city.

The first rest stop included a stand where a gentleman sold deep fried bananas and sweet potato balls. Both were delicious, especially the sweet potato balls that tasted like light fluffy doughnut holes.

Fried bananas and sweet potato balls

We then biked through some back streets and neighborhoods, which was great because we avoided some of the very busy Bangkok traffic and saw things we never would have found on our our own. We suddenly came into a really large street market where vendors sold everything from produce to live animals and fish that were slaughtered on the spot. The market was crowded as people bustled by to get their various items.

Fresh fish

After walking our bikes through the market we made a quick rest stop by a neighborhood temple before we boarded a boat to cross the river to Bangkachao, a peninsula created by the river winding around a stomach-shaped piece of land. When you arrive it feels like a tropical island. Bangkachao is filled with banana and coconut groves. It is a little rural oasis in the middle of the busy, bustling Bangkok. Once in Bangkachao we followed a zig zagging series of 3ft wide concrete raised sidewalks that led us around the area…a bit of a biking challenge but no one landed in the murky water below.

The tour included lunch at a small local restaurant then we started our trip back along the narrow sidewalks to the boat, and biking back through Bangkok. Going back we took a more direct route on busy streets which gave us a taste of what it is like to drive one of the many scooters in the city. This is not for the faint of heart! The scooters constantly weave through traffic and as you will see in my photo, they all line up at the front of an intersection when waiting for the traffic light to change.

During our tour we enjoyed talking with Mr. Ed, our fearless leader, Gabriel and Vivian, a nice young couple from Switzerland, and Priscilla from the Netherlands. It was the perfect size group to explore together while having conversations. Gabriel enjoyed whistling and Vivian started several sing alongs along the way. Despite the heat and humidity, a bicycle tour was a great way to see several areas of Bangkok.

After a long, hot day the cool ride on the subway to the hotel was welcome. It was also time to try a more western massage. It was a relaxing evening with drinks and dinner. Another wonderful day in Bangkok.

The only casualty of the tour was Greg’s sunglasses which were dropped or lost in the busy street market. A quick trip to a local shopping mall on our way back to the hotel easily found a new pair.

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Day 3 – Exploring Bangkok, Thailand: Tuk Tuk and Temples

Wednesday, July 5, 2023 – After a night’s rest and a sampling from the hotel’s extensive breakfast buffet, we set out to explore Bangkok. We did not have much of a plan except for an audio tour we downloaded to guide us through four of the main Buddhist temples in the city. We used the Grab app (similar to Uber and Lyft) to catch a ride to the Grand Palace, which we thought would be our first stop for the day. Little did we know that our day would go in a different, yet enjoyable, direction.

After exiting our Grab we gave in to a new tourist ploy to take a Tuk Tuk ride to explore some local sites before heading into the Grand Palace. Our Tuk Tuk driver would be our guide for 50 Thai baht each (about $1.50 US). It sounded like an interesting way to start our Bangkok experience. And with that decision, our morning itinerary changed to include a nearby neighborhood temple, a tailor shop, a jewelry and souvenir shop, and Wat Benchamapophit (the “Marble Temple”). We ultimately discovered that the planned route was choreographed to generate additional compensation to the Tuk Tuk driver for providing visitors to local businesses. We did enjoy the introductory temple visits and the Tuk Tuk ride experience. Although we said no to most of the items being pitched our way, we agreed to purchase some new custom made cashmere clothing: a suit and two suit coats for Greg and a black dress for Karen

The hot and humid afternoon was spent exploring the expansive Grand Palace which includes Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Grand Palace is a complex of various buildings in the heart of Bangkok. The palace has been used as the residence of the Kings of Siam (later Thailand) since 1782. The tall pointed structures you will see in our pictures are chedis. They are built to honor kings and leaders. In some of the temples, the person’s ashes are actually entombed in the chedi.

The Emerald Buddha is quite something to see. No photography is allowed so you will need to make an internet search for an image. The Emerald Buddha, as you can probably guess from its name, is covered in emeralds. It is only 26 inches (66 cm) tall. An interesting fact is that the Emerald Buddha has four different elaborately jeweled outfits, one for each season. The only person who can change the outfits is the King of Thailand.

Our lunch was a traditional Thai soup from a small street side shop. We boarded a water ferry to cross the Chao Phraya river to the Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn). This is one of Thailand’s oldest and most famous temples. Built in 1767 by King Taksin after the capitol was destroyed by the Burmese, it dates back to before Bangkok was founded. We discovered that this famous temple is frequently used as a photo backdrop for many Thai people. You will see a couple of pictures we captured while people were getting their professional photos taken. This temple has steep stairs you can climb to a small terrace around the perimeter of the prang (a tall tower with a broad base that narrows as it goes up).

While we were in this temple a monk was providing small Buddas and a red string bracelet with 5 beads for those that made a donation. As he tied the bracket on our wrists he provided a prayer for “good luck and be happy.”

At this point the two of us were dripping in sweat (Bangkok is VERY hot and humid!). We made our way back across the river and figured out the Metro system to take a nice air-conditioned subway back to our hotel. After showers, a change of clothes and drinks at the bar we experienced our first (and probably last) Thai massage. Unlike the traditional western style massage, a Thai massage is given while dressed in a loose fitting outfit provided to you. The massage therapist goes through a series of stretches and compression on your body with their hands, forearms, elbows, and knees. One place we saw Thai massages referenced “a bit of pain.” We would agree. We are glad we experienced it, but once is enough for us.

Our evening ended with a visit from the tailor for the initial fitting for our custom made clothes. Amazingly the clothes were about 80% fnshed and will be ready for a final fitting when we return to Bangkok before heading home.

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Day 1 & 2 – Travel to Bangkok

We are off and are enjoying our prestige seats!

Monday, July 3, 2023 – We started our journey to Southeast Asia to celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. Our adventure started from the Boston airport where we boarded a Korean Air flight for a 15 hour trip to Seoul, South Korea. The flight pattern went North across Canada and Alaska before arriving in Seoul.

Once in Seoul we had a little stress going through security with a very short layover, but fortunately our next flight to Bangkok, Thailand was delayed. We walked on our flight just in time to settle in for the additional 5 hour flight to Bangkok.

For this trip we decided to splurge and upgrade our seats to the prestige class, giving each of us our own little pod to stretch out and be able to fully recline our seats. This is definitely the way to travel for long flights. The food and drink service along with the ability to get some decent sleep made the trip easier. Both of us were able to make the trip without any jet lag.

After our two long flights heading west we landed in Bangkok around 10:00 pm. After a half hour trip to our hotel, The Lancaster, our trip to Southeast Asia was complete.

Our trip to Bangkok did not have any travel disruptions, however, we did have one minor incident once we checked into our hotel. As we tried to quickly unpack and settle in Greg managed to blow a fuse in our room by trying to plug a few things in. Fortunately with a quick late night visit from the hotel engineer to solve the issue, we were able to get all our devices recharged and get ourselves recharged with a night’s sleep in our new time zone.

Flight from Boston to Seoul

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Taking a Sweet Walk in Barcelona – Thursday, July 23, 2015

During our trip, Karen became a big fan of the tour books written by Rick Steves.  The Spain book suggested that while in Barcelona consider taking a “Sweet Walk” through the old town area.  So after our day at the beach we decided to re-energize ourselves with some sweet treats.  The walk started with sampling some Turron, a nougat made with honey, sugar, egg whites and toasted almonds.  The second stop included one of Kelsey’s favorites: Churros Con Chocolate.  The last stop was to get some chocolates from Fargas, a famous old chocolate shop.  Mmmm…delicious.

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