Many people think sea days are the most relaxing part of a cruise. Clearly, they’ve never traveled with Kelsey. She believes the best way to experience a cruise is to do everything!
Today was the first of two sea days on our Mediterranean cruise, and our day started at a 9:00 a.m. Tai Chi class on the top deck. From there, the activities barely slowed down.
One of the great things about cruising is that everyone can choose their own adventure, so while we didn’t all do every activity together, between the five of us we managed to experience quite a variety. Over the course of the day, we squeezed in a Zumba class, a $10 bargain sale in the ship’s shops, Music Bingo, DIY facials, walks on the two-level jogging track, workouts in the fitness center, and some time watching the British Open.
Of course, we also spent plenty of time by the pool. It was very, very hot, so all those activities inside the air-conditioned ship provided some welcome breaks from the Mediterranean sun.
Naturally, food was never far from our minds. We quickly discovered a few favorite spots around the ship, including the ice cream station and the poolside grill’s french fries for an afternoon snack.
For dinner, we visited Normandie, the ship’s French-inspired complimentary restaurant. Once again, the food was excellent. Since we had mentioned when booking the cruise that we were celebrating our wedding anniversary a month late, our waitstaff surprised us with a special dessert while singing “Happy ‘Versary to You.” It was a fun and unexpected touch to the evening.
After dinner, the group split up. Karen, Kelsey, and Lindsey enjoyed a show featuring singing, tap dancing, and acrobatics in one of the smaller theaters. Meanwhile, Greg and Malik headed to the main theater to watch the FIFA World Cup Final on the giant screen.
Watching the World Cup at sea turned out to be one of those unexpected experiences that made the day especially memorable. The theater was filled with international fans from countries around the world, each cheering on their favorite team. The ship embraced the event too, serving appetizers, desserts, and popcorn while everyone watched the match together on the huge screen. It was a fun reminder of just how international a cruise can be.
Sea days may not include sightseeing, but they certainly aren’t boring, especially when Kelsey is helping plan the itinerary!
Tomorrow, we’ll arrive in the beautiful walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia, one of the destinations we’ve been looking forward to most.
Our first port of call brought us to Messina, the third-largest city on the island of Sicily. Located on the northeastern tip of the island, Messina sits just across the Strait of Messina from mainland Italy.
We were up early and ready to go because we had booked a shore excursion through the cruise line. When we reserved the cruise, each of us received onboard credit, so this seemed like the perfect way to put it to good use.
Our group of about 20 passengers boarded a coach bus and set off with an energetic Sicilian tour guide who kept us entertained throughout the day. As we drove through the countryside, we enjoyed beautiful views of vineyards, rolling hills, and Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. Our guide assured us there was no reason to worry about its current activity, joking that residents are usually given a few hours’ notice if an evacuation is ever needed!
After about a 30-minute drive, the bus climbed a series of winding switchbacks toward the picturesque hilltop village of Castelmola. The roads became too narrow for the bus to reach the town itself, so we climbed the final set of stairs and walked the remaining distance.
Looking upLooking down
Our first stop was a charming local café where we sampled several Sicilian pistachio specialties: a refreshing pistachio granita, a miniature pistachio cannoli, a pistachio fritter, and a shot of pistachio liqueur. The sweet treats were delicious, although the liqueur, which reminded me of amaretto, wasn’t my favorite.
We were then given about 30 minutes to explore Castelmola on our own. Despite the summer heat, it was fun wandering through the narrow streets, browsing the small souvenir shops, and taking in the spectacular views overlooking the Ionian Sea. Lindsey couldn’t resist stopping for a full-sized authentic Sicilian cannoli, and she definitely made the right decision!
After refilling our water bottles at one of Italy’s ever-present public fountains, we made our way back down the hill and rejoined our bus.
Our next destination was a small, family-owned winery located near the path of Mount Etna’s most recent lava flow. During a tour of the vineyard and production facilities, we learned how generations of the same family have produced wine using grapes grown in the rich volcanic soil surrounding the mountain.
The visit concluded with a tasting of four wines, including a newly released sparkling wine, each paired with a small local snack. The volcanic soil gives the wines their own distinctive character, making the tasting both educational and enjoyable. Before leaving, we also sampled several varieties of locally produced honey and the winery’s homemade grappa, a spirit distilled from leftover grape skins after the winemaking process.
Volcanic Lava Flow
With some jars of honey and other souvenirs safely packed away, we boarded the bus for the return trip to Messina.
The unsung hero of the day was our bus driver, Santo. Navigating a full-sized coach along Sicily’s narrow mountain roads was impressive enough, but at one point he even had to back the bus down a winding road to allow another tour bus to pass. It was a masterclass in patience and precision.
Back in Messina, Kelsey and I made one final stop before returning to the ship. Kelsey has made it a tradition to find a bubble tea shop wherever she travels, so naturally we visited Bubble Ninja, the local boba shop. While briefly exploring the town, we also stepped inside the beautiful Cathedral of Messina, whose impressive interior was well worth the brief visit.
Back on board, we had just enough time to shower, relax with a pre-dinner drink, and head to Tuscan, the ship’s Italian-inspired complimentary restaurant. No matter which restaurant we chose, Kelsey remained loyal to her favorite cruise dinner: shrimp cocktail, steak, and french fries.
That evening’s entertainment featured a high-energy production show by the ship’s performers. The singing, dancing, costumes, and staging were outstanding and noticeably more elaborate than the entertainment we experienced on our smaller cruise last summer.
To cap off the night, we joined one of our favorite cruise traditions: the Silent Disco. Everyone wears wireless headphones that can switch between three music channels, each identified by a different colored light. It’s hilarious to watch people enthusiastically singing and dancing to completely different songs while, to anyone without headphones, the room is almost silent.
Silent Disco
It was the perfect ending to another memorable day.
Tomorrow, we’ll trade Sicily for the stunning walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia!
With our cruise departing in the afternoon, we knew we wouldn’t have time for any more sightseeing in Rome. Instead, we enjoyed a relaxed morning, packed our bags, and walked to a neighborhood café for one last Italian breakfast before returning to our apartment to check out.
At 11:00 a.m., our shuttle picked us up for the drive to the cruise port. Although many people think of cruises as departing from Rome, they actually leave from the Port of Civitavecchia, about 90 minutes northwest of the city.
Today we would be boarding the Celebrity Ascent, our home for the next 10 days as we cruised through the Mediterranean.
The embarkation process couldn’t have been easier. Our driver dropped us off directly in front of the terminal, where we handed over our luggage, checked in, and were on board shortly after 1:00 p.m.
Our first stop was the Oceanview Café, the ship’s expansive buffet, where we found just about every type of food imaginable. After lunch (and perhaps one too many desserts), we began exploring the ship’s 15 passenger decks, getting our bearings, and discovering many of the places we’d be returning to throughout our cruise.
One tip that paid off was packing our swimsuits in our carry-on bags. Since our checked luggage wouldn’t arrive at our cabin until later in the afternoon, we were able to change and spend a few relaxing hours by the pool, enjoying the sunshine and our first vacation cocktails of the cruise.
By late afternoon, our luggage had arrived, giving us time to unpack and get ready for our first dinner on board.
Our cabin
Instead of one large main dining room, the ship offers four complimentary restaurants, each with its own culinary style. For our first evening, we chose Cosmopolitan, which features contemporary cuisine. Each restaurant offers a unique selection of signature dishes while also serving a variety of appetizers and entrées that are available throughout the four restaurants.
After dinner, we headed to the theater for a comedy show that had us laughing throughout the evening. Before calling it a night, we made one final stop at one of our favorite gathering places on the ship: the Martini Bar.
Although it doesn’t feature the famous ice-covered bar from the Celebrity cruise we took four years ago, it’s still a lively spot in the center of the ship. We arrived just in time for the bartenders’ popular “chandelier show,” a choreographed performance filled with bottle flips, shaker tricks, and perfectly timed pours. The grand finale featured a bartender carefully tipping a stack of ten cocktail shakers to simultaneously fill a pyramid of martini glasses, bringing cheers from everyone gathered around.
It was the perfect way to end our first day on board the Celebrity Ascent. Tomorrow morning, we’d wake up in Messina, Sicily, ready to begin exploring our first Mediterranean port of call.
We woke up refreshed and ready for another day exploring Rome. To start the morning, we headed to a local bar. In Italy, “bar” often means a neighborhood café, serving coffee and pastries rather than cocktails. It was the perfect place to try a traditional Roman pastry, the maritozzo, a soft sweet bun filled with fresh whipped cream. Legend has it that it’s good luck if you end up with whipped cream on your nose while eating it. Based on the photo, Karen should have plenty of good luck coming her way!
Fueled by coffee, pastries, and a little sugar, we set out for our main adventure of the morning: a pizza and gelato-making class. On the way, we wandered through Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most famous squares. The centerpiece is Bernini’s magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi), where the four sculpted figures represent the Nile, Ganges, Danube, and Rio de la Plata rivers.
Piazza NavonaFountain of the Four Rivers
After taking a few photos, we arrived at the restaurant, washed our hands, tied on our aprons, and got to work. The class turned out to be a fun way to escape the late-morning heat while learning how to make both chocolate and vanilla gelato before rolling, topping, and baking our own individual pizzas. We may not be professional chefs, but we were pretty happy with the results!
One interesting thing we learned is that traditional Roman pizza is quite different from what many of us are used to. The dough contains less water, allowing it to be rolled much thinner and baked into a crisp crust rather than the thick, airy style found in places like Naples.
Making Gelato and Pizza
After enjoying our pizzas, gelato, and a sample of homemade limoncello, we made the short walk to the Pantheon. Unfortunately, the online ticket system wasn’t cooperating, so we waited about 30 minutes to purchase tickets in person. It was well worth it.
Standing beneath the Pantheon’s enormous dome is an unforgettable experience. We spent time admiring its incredible architecture while learning how this nearly 2,000-year-old building has evolved from a Roman temple into one of Rome’s most important churches.
The Pantheon
From there, we continued exploring with another Rick Steves audio tour, passing many of Rome’s iconic landmarks, including the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.
Trevi Fountain Piazza ColonnaColumn of Marcus AureliusOur Lady of Immaculate The Spanish Embassy The Spanish StairsThe view from the top of the Spanish Stairs
Despite the afternoon heat, Greg decided to climb all 135 Spanish Steps to enjoy the view from the top. If you zoom in on the photo, you can spot him with both hands raised in victory! The rest of the family found a shady spot below and learned that the Spanish Steps get their name from the nearby Spanish Embassy, not because they were built by Spain.
Greg at the top of the Spanish Stairs
After checking several more of Rome’s “must-see” landmarks off our list, we headed back to the apartment for some much-needed air conditioning and a chance to cool off before dinner.
Since our apartment was just a short walk from the Rome Opera House, we had no shortage of restaurants to choose from. Following another delicious Italian dinner, Karen and Kelsey headed back to the apartment while Greg, Lindsey, and Malik squeezed in one last stop at a rooftop bar. Lindsey’s cocktail, included carbon syrup and edible glitter, it was something to see.
As our second day in Rome came to an end, we reflected on everything we had seen over the past two days. We had only scratched the surface of this incredible city, but it was time for the next chapter of our adventure. Tomorrow, we will board our Mediterranean cruise.
The Hammond family is off on another summer adventure! This year we’re heading to Italy for a 10-day Mediterranean cruise that begins and ends in Rome. Since we decided to skip the cruise ship’s Wi-Fi package, our travel blog is a little behind. Thanks for your patience!
After a long overnight journey (Hartford to Detroit to Rome for Greg, Karen, and Kelsey, and a nonstop flight from Chicago to Rome for Lindsey and Malik), we reunited at Rome’s airport. After changing into cooler clothes, we made our way to our Airbnb, dropped off our luggage, and immediately set out to explore the Eternal City.
Our first priority was lunch… and an Aperol Spritz. When in Rome! The owner of the café proudly told us he created his version of the drink for a beverage festival in 1994. Instead of the traditional prosecco, he uses lemon or orange soda, making it a little sweeter and surprisingly refreshing.
Determined to stay awake and adjust to the new time zone, we spent the afternoon visiting some of Rome’s most famous landmarks. We quickly discovered that Rome in July is every bit as hot and crowded as people say, but that didn’t take away from the excitement of finally being here.
Our first major stop was the Colosseum, originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. While walking around its exterior, we listened to Rick Steves’ excellent audio tour. Even with our neck fans working overtime, the afternoon heat was intense, although the Colosseum’s massive walls provided some welcome shade. One thing we especially appreciated throughout Rome was the abundance of public drinking fountains with cold, fresh water, making it easy to refill our water bottles.
The Colosseum is an incredible engineering achievement. Construction began in 72 AD and was completed about eight years later. Built from stone without concrete, it could hold as many as 80,000 spectators. Its 80 entrances and exits allowed enormous crowds to enter and leave with remarkable efficiency, an impressive design even by today’s standards.
The Colosseum and Arch of Constantine
Just a short walk away, we entered the Roman Forum, once the political, religious, and commercial heart of ancient Rome. Over the centuries, many of its stones were removed for other building projects, while much of the site was gradually buried beneath layers of soil. Beginning in 1803, archaeologists started uncovering and preserving what remains today. Walking along the Via Sacra, the same road traveled by Roman citizens nearly 2,000 years ago, made history feel incredibly real. Seeing landmarks like the Arch of Titus and the Temple of Saturn was a powerful reminder of what people were able to accomplish by hand so many centuries ago.
Arch of TitusVia SacraTemple of Antonius & FaustinaThe Vestal Virgins at the Temple of VestaHouse of the VestalsTemple of VestaStatue of NervaVictor Emmanuel II Monument
By the time we finished exploring the Forum, we were more than ready for a break from the heat. On our walk back toward the apartment, we found Rooftop Jim’s Bar. The drinks weren’t cheap, but they were cold, delicious, and came with wonderful views over the city, making them well worth the stop.
After cooling off, we could all feel the effects of jet lag starting to catch up with us, so we headed back to the apartment to shower and freshen up before dinner. We had reservations at a neighborhood restaurant just a short walk away, where we enjoyed a fantastic meal featuring fresh, handmade pasta.
With full stomachs, tired feet, and the combination of heat, sightseeing, and overnight travel finally catching up with us, we were more than ready to call it a night. We were especially thankful that our apartment had air conditioning. Tomorrow, we’ll continue exploring Rome before boarding our cruise.
This was the final full day of our trip, and Karen decided we should end our London adventure in style. A shopping day!
After packing up and checking out of our hotel, we left our luggage with the concierge and set out for our first stop just a couple of blocks away: the famous Selfridges department store. Breakfast was also part of the plan, so we headed straight for the Foodhall entrance. As we approached, we were surprised to see a very long roped-off line stretching down the sidewalk. We could not imagine that this many people were waiting for breakfast.
Once inside, we discovered the line had nothing to do with food. Designer Anya Hindmarch had collaborated with Selfridges on a new release of their trademark yellow reusable shopping bags, and they had just gone on sale at 10:00 AM. Apparently this was a major event. London shoppers do not mess around when it comes to limited-edition bags!
After navigating around the special checkout area devoted entirely to bag sales, we explored the Foodhall, which felt part gourmet grocery store and part luxury grab-and-go market. Since the café there was not yet open, we were directed upstairs to the beautifully named Brasserie of Light.
The restaurant absolutely lived up to its name. Sunlight poured through enormous windows, mirrors reflected light throughout the room, and the centerpiece was an enormous sparkling silver Pegasus sculpture mounted dramatically on the wall. It was quite a sight first thing in the morning.
We enjoyed a delicious and reasonably priced breakfast while soaking in the bright, glamorous atmosphere. Clearly the department store has mastered the art of encouraging shoppers to linger a little longer.
After breakfast we wandered through the rest of Selfridges. It was mostly window shopping for us, though we did circle back and pick up a few of the famous yellow reusable bags once the crowds had disappeared.
About a ten-minute walk away was another iconic London shopping destination, Liberty London. The store itself may actually be more beautiful than the merchandise inside. Housed in a Tudor Revival building with dark wood beams, creaking wooden floors, and grand staircases, it feels more like walking through an old manor house than a department store.
The center of the building features large atrium-like spaces topped with glass ceilings that flood the interior with natural light. While Liberty carries many brands, the store is still famous for its signature Liberty of London floral prints and fabrics. The top floor showcases rows and rows of fabric bolts in every imaginable pattern and color. It was genuinely fun browsing through them all, though it is possible Karen enjoyed this portion of the day just a little more than Greg did.
From Liberty we walked around the corner to Hamleys, the legendary toy store on Regent Street. Even though we were not shopping for toys, it was impossible not to enjoy exploring the six floors packed with games, gadgets, and demonstrations. Around every corner an enthusiastic employee was launching flying toys, performing magic tricks, or racing miniature cars. We can only imagine how chaotic and exciting the store must feel during the holidays.
Just a few minutes later we arrived at the destination that had inspired this entire shopping-themed day: afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason.
We had reservations for afternoon tea in the elegant Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon. The room was beautifully decorated, a pianist played softly on a grand piano, and many guests were dressed up for the occasion. It made for excellent people watching. We ordered the traditional afternoon tea, with Karen beginning with a glass of champagne while Greg chose a sparkling peach iced tea.
The tea service itself was an experience. We each selected our own tea from a menu featuring more than 50 varieties. Soon a beautiful three-tiered silver tray arrived at the table. The bottom tier held finger sandwiches including smoked salmon, cucumber, egg salad, ham, and Coronation chicken salad, a curried chicken salad created for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. The middle tier featured warm scones served with strawberry jam and thick clotted cream. The top tier was filled with delicate two-bite desserts that looked almost too pretty to eat.
Almost.
One of the lovely traditions of afternoon tea is that you are encouraged to request more of anything you would like. Over the course of nearly two hours we enjoyed multiple pots of tea, but after all the sandwiches, scones, and desserts we simply did not have room for additional food. We eventually packed some desserts up to take with us. It was one of those wonderfully indulgent experiences that simply feels quintessentially London.
Afterward we explored the rest of Fortnum & Mason. By now we had noticed that each iconic London department store seems to have its own signature color. Selfridges is bright yellow, Liberty is deep purple, and Fortnum & Mason is unmistakably teal. The store’s stunning teal spiral staircase sits at the center of the building and ties everything together beautifully.
The ground floor is filled with teas, biscuits, preserves, and beautifully packaged treats, while upper floors feature china, linens, cookware, and specialty gifts. There were even departments dedicated to picnic baskets and all the accessories needed to stock them properly. The entire store feels less like shopping and more like stepping into a carefully designed experience.
By the time we left Fortnum & Mason we were definitely ready to walk off some of our afternoon tea, so we made the thirty-minute walk back toward the original Twinings tea shop. We had visited the store on our second day in London but avoided buying much since we still had our entire Cotswolds hiking adventure ahead of us. Now, with the hiking portion of the trip behind us, we could browse much more freely. We sampled teas, picked up a few favorites, and enjoyed one last proper London tea-shopping experience.
By late afternoon we were officially shopped out. We slowly made our way back toward the hotel, stopping along the way for one final British gin and tonic while enjoying the unexpectedly warm weather. We could hardly believe London had reached the mid-70s.
After collecting our luggage, we grabbed an Uber to what we thought was our airport hotel for the night before our morning flight.
And then came our final unexpected British adventure.
Our Uber dropped us off at the Heathrow Hilton Garden Inn. Unfortunately, when we checked in, the front desk could not find our reservation. After several confused minutes, we discovered there are apparently three Hilton properties at Heathrow, including two different Hilton Garden Inns.
Really?!?
So we called another Uber and took a fifteen-minute, two-mile ride to the correct hotel. Thankfully we had built in plenty of extra time, and the second hotel turned out to be connected to Terminal 2 by a pedestrian bridge, meaning no additional transportation would be needed in the morning.
After finally checking in, we grabbed a light dinner and spent the evening playing suitcase Jenga as we attempted to fit hiking boots, souvenirs, tea tins, and shopping purchases into our luggage.
The next morning we were up bright and early for the walk to the airport and our flight home to Boston.
We decided today was the perfect day to take a break from museums and palaces. With temperatures expected to reach the upper 60s, it seemed like ideal weather to explore a few new-to-us London neighborhoods. So after a hearty breakfast, we set out on foot for another day of adventure.
As it turns out, we were in London during the same week as the famous Chelsea Flower Show, purely by coincidence. This massive annual event draws visitors from around the world. While we did not have tickets to the flower show itself, we had read that nearby neighborhoods celebrate with elaborate floral displays throughout the streets and storefronts.
We began our “tour” with about a 30-minute walk to the Belgravia neighborhood. Once there, we followed a self-guided walking route through charming residential streets lined with elegant white townhouses and tucked-away garden squares. Along the way we passed several storefronts decorated with lovely floral displays. We ooohhhed and ahhhhed, not realizing that this was only the warm-up act for what was ahead.
During our walk through Belgravia we came across another one of London’s historical markers, this one noting the house where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived while visiting London as a child. Remarkably, Mozart was only eight years old when he composed his Symphony No. 1 there in 1764. It is hard to imagine creating a symphony at that age when most eight-year-olds are still working on elementary school homework! Moments like this are one of the things we have loved most about London. Around almost every corner there seems to be another fascinating piece of history hiding in plain sight.
We stopped for lunch at a local restaurant and were lucky to grab the last two seats at the bar. As we looked around, we noticed the restaurant was absolutely packed, and most of the customers were women dressed in colorful floral dresses and hats, clearly showing that this flower show must be a really big deal!
After lunch we walked about 10 minutes to the Chelsea neighborhood, where we had read about a free public event called “Chelsea in Bloom.” Apparently, we were not the only people who had heard about it. The streets were absolutely thronged with people.
Greg, who enjoys carefully setting up the perfect photo, was slightly frustrated by the constant stream of people walking directly in front of him at all times. That minor challenge aside, we were completely wowed by what we saw. There were five large floral installations spread throughout the neighborhood, each more creative than the last. In addition, many of the shops and restaurants had elaborate floral displays decorating their storefronts.
This year’s theme was “Out of This World,” so we saw enormous floral suns, moons, planets, astronauts, galaxies, and even a few aliens. It was genuinely stunning, and we felt incredibly lucky that our timing happened to line up perfectly with the event.
After several hours weaving through crowds and admiring flowers, we were ready for a quieter activity and realized it was tea time. We were determined to enjoy one more cream tea before leaving the UK. During our time in the Cotswolds, nearly every village seemed to have multiple tea rooms, and even the pubs happily served tea and scones. London, however, proved a bit different. There were countless places offering elaborate and expensive traditional afternoon teas, but finding a simple cream tea with just scones and tea took more effort than expected.
Thankfully, persistence paid off. After another 20-minute walk, we found a small tea room where we could finally sit down and rest our feet for a bit. The scones were not the best we had during the trip, but at that point we were simply grateful for tea, chairs, and a moment of peace.
With renewed energy, we decided to explore one final area before dinner. This time we hopped on the Tube and headed to Little Venice. Hidden within the middle of London is a peaceful canal area lined with colorful narrowboats and houseboats. Some boats offer canal tours or act as water taxis, while others have been converted into floating cafes, coffee shops, or even hotel accommodations. We passed one boat available to rent overnight and another operating as a puppet theater barge.
Just as we wandered farther along the canal, it began to rain. London doing London things. We quickly ducked into a Tube station to regroup and plan our next steps.
Another nice bonus of our trip coinciding with the Chelsea Flower Show was the opportunity to briefly catch up with two close friends who used to live in West Hartford and now live in North Carolina. They were in London for the flower show, so we met up with them for a drink at their hotel bar. It felt funny that we all had to fly to London in order to see each other!
Afterward, we took the Tube back toward our hotel and stopped at a cozy neighborhood pub just a block away for a late dinner. It was the perfect ending to another wonderful day in London.
Another great London day in the books. Only one more day before our England adventure comes to an end!
This morning we were up and out again with only enough time for a quick pastry breakfast before heading to the Tube. We arrived at the Tower of London just in time for our 10:00-10:30 AM ticketed entry window.
Once inside the Tower grounds, we started our visit with a free 45-minute tour led by a Yeoman Warder, better known by the nickname “Beefeater.” The Yeoman Warders were established by King Henry VII in 1485 as royal bodyguards and guardians of prisoners. According to our guide, the nickname “Beefeater” came from the fact that while much of the population survived on modest meals of chicken or pigeon, these guards were provided with generous beef rations to keep up their strength.
Since records began in 1826, there have only been 425 Beefeaters. To qualify, applicants must be honorably retired after at least 22 years of military service and have an unblemished record. Once appointed, they and their families live within the Tower grounds. Today there are about 35 active Beefeaters (men and women) whose duties include leading tours, answering questions, and participating in the Ceremony of the Keys, the nightly locking of the Tower that has taken place for more than 700 years.
Fun fact: Beefeater Gin got its name after the company wanted to use an iconic British symbol for branding. According to our guide, the military and police declined, but the Beefeaters agreed on one condition: every Beefeater receives a complimentary bottle of gin on their birthday each year!
We thoroughly enjoyed the tour, although it turned out to be less of a walking tour and more of a storytelling session about the Tower’s history. Our Beefeater guide was fantastic. He spoke loudly enough for the huge crowd to hear, and he was animated, personable, and genuinely funny. His commentary blended humor with plenty of fascinating history.
After the tour, we spent a little time visiting the famous ravens that live on the Tower grounds. Legend says that if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the monarchy will fall. To prevent that possibility, eight ravens are kept there at all times. They are extremely well cared for, although their wings are clipped so they cannot fly far away.
Next, we toured the White Tower, the iconic central building of the complex. Inside we saw displays of armor and weaponry, along with several chilling artifacts, including an execution block and axe. On an upper floor we visited St. John’s Chapel, one of the oldest surviving church interiors in London.
We then joined the line to see the Crown Jewels. Unfortunately photography is not allowed, so you will have to trust us on this one. That is some serious bling! Kings and queens definitely earned a workout carrying the enormous crowns, scepters, orbs, and elaborate ceremonial robes.
We also explored the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, where three British queens are buried, the Beauchamp Tower with its haunting prisoner carvings etched into the stone walls, and the Bloody Tower, infamous as the final home of the two young princes whose remains were discovered centuries later. Spoiler alert: history strongly suggests their uncle had them killed so he could take the throne himself.
Before leaving, we walked along part of the medieval wall, which offered excellent views of the much newer Tower Bridge, completed in 1894. Altogether, it was a fascinating morning packed with centuries of sometimes gruesome history.
By the time we left, it was nearly 2:00 PM and we were very hungry. We crossed London Bridge to the Bankside area and made our way to Borough Market, a massive food market filled with cheesemongers, fish stalls, butchers, bakeries, and food vendors from around the world. Greg went with paella while Karen chose wild mushroom risotto. Both were excellent.
After lunch we were fortified enough to tackle another Rick Steves walking tour. Along the way we passed Southwark Cathedral, where film crews were setting up. At this point we are beginning to suspect we may accidentally be wandering through the background of several British TV shows.
We also walked past a replica of the Golden Hinde, the ship Sir Francis Drake sailed around the world, and the ruins of Winchester Palace, where the Bishops of Winchester once grew wealthy through businesses tied to gambling and prostitution. That history helped give the south side of London its rather rough reputation centuries ago.
The Golden HindeRuins of Winchester Palace
Next we passed the site of Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre, which famously burned down in 1613 during a performance of Henry VIII before eventually being rebuilt nearby. Right about then the rain arrived, so we pulled up our hoods and made our way to the Tate Modern, housed inside a former power station. Modern art may not entirely be our thing, but it was free, dry, and home to several famous works, including Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe diptych.
When we stepped back outside, the skies had cleared, so we wandered over to the Sky Garden at the top of London’s “Cheese Grater” skyscraper. The gardens occupy the top three floors and feature tropical plants spread throughout a soaring glass atrium with incredible panoramic views across the city. We spent quite a while walking around, taking pictures, and enjoying the scenery before settling in for a drink.
We had dinner reservations at the Darwin Restaurant, located right inside the gardens, which made for a pretty memorable setting for dinner.
When we came out afterward, we discovered a beautiful evening waiting for us. One thing we have really enjoyed about England is how late the sun sets compared to Connecticut. It stays light well after 9:00 PM this time of year. With pleasant temperatures and daylight still lingering, we decided to walk the three miles back to our hotel. By the time we arrived, we had definitely walked off dinner.
It was another wonderful and very full London day.
After a good night’s sleep, we were up and ready to tackle another full day in London. We left our hotel and grabbed a quick pastry and coffee/tea from a nearby café before making our way to Buckingham Palace.
Even though we arrived well before the 11:00 AM Changing of the Guards ceremony, apparently several hundred other tourists had the exact same plan. We slowly worked our way along the fence line until we finally secured a spot with a decent view into the palace courtyard. In the end, the effort paid off.
The ceremony itself was impressive to watch. The incoming guards marched in with military precision while the outgoing guards prepared to end their shift. One of the funniest surprises came from the band, which mixed traditional music with a very unexpected rendition of “Danger Zone” from Top Gun. Hearing that while standing in front of Buckingham Palace was not something we had anticipated, but the crowd absolutely loved it.
Another thing we found interesting was that the actual changing of the guards was far less dramatic than we expected. While the band and marching formations drew everyone’s attention, the real exchange of the guards happened rather quietly and efficiently in the background. It turns out the spectacle is as much about ceremony and tradition as the actual shift change itself.
After the ceremony ended and the guards paraded away, we wandered toward Westminster Abbey for our 1:30 PM tour. Since we had a little extra time, we decided to stop for lunch nearby. A Google search led us to One Great George Street, which turned out to be a hidden gem. The building serves as the headquarters for the Institution of Civil Engineers and also contains a café open to the public.
We poked our heads into the stunning Great Hall and admired the beautiful domed atrium before heading downstairs to the café. It ended up being one of our favorite lunch stops of the trip. The cafeteria-style café offered delicious and surprisingly inexpensive food in a quiet and comfortable setting. Better yet, while we were eating, a rain shower rolled through London. By the time we finished lunch, the rain had stopped and the sun was beginning to reappear. Perfect timing.
From there it was just a short walk to Westminster Abbey, where our timed-entry tickets allowed us to walk right in. We spent the next couple of hours exploring this enormous and historically significant church. Everywhere you looked there were memorials, statues, and tombs honoring Britain’s most famous figures. It truly felt like a who’s who of British history.
Several kings and queens are buried within the Abbey, along with scientists, military leaders, politicians, writers, and artists. One of our favorite areas was Poet’s Corner, filled with memorials to literary legends including Geoffrey Chaucer, Charles Dickens, Rudyard Kipling, and many others.
Tomb of Unknown SoldierIsaac Newton MemorialPoets CornerCoronation Chair
We had also purchased tickets for access to the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, located high above the Abbey near the roofline. After climbing several flights of stairs, we were rewarded with incredible views overlooking the interior of the Abbey along with fascinating exhibits about its history and treasures. The galleries contained a number of historical artifacts, including a copy of the Magna Carta. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed, so you will just have to trust us when we say it was absolutely worth the extra ticket.
When we finished at the Abbey, we realized we were perfectly positioned to follow another Rick Steves walking tour, this one through Westminster. The route took us past Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Parliament Square, and up Whitehall past numerous monuments and government buildings.
Big Ben is the bell in the tower
Quite by accident, our timing once again worked out perfectly. We arrived at the Royal Horse Guards just as the Dismounting Ceremony was beginning for the day. We watched as the mounted guards were relieved of duty, dismounted, and led their horses back in for the evening. It felt like one of those unexpected travel moments you could never really plan for.
Our walk eventually brought us to Trafalgar Square, where we still had a little time before dinner. Since the National Gallery sits right on the square and offers free admission, we decided to spend about 45 minutes exploring. We headed directly to the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist rooms and enjoyed seeing works by artists whose paintings we instantly recognized. It was a quick visit, but a wonderful one.
For dinner, we stopped at a pub in London’s West End before heading to the Dominion Theatre to see The Devil Wears Prada. The musical follows the same basic storyline as the movie and features music by Sir Elton John. It was a fun and entertaining production and seemed especially timely with the sequel now playing in movie theaters.
After the show, we enjoyed a final 20-minute walk back to our hotel through the London streets, adding a few more steps to an already full day before calling it a night and getting ready for another day of adventures in London.
We enjoyed a slower start to the day with breakfast at our hotel before packing up and getting ready for our 10:30 AM taxi pickup. After several days of hiking, sightseeing, and constantly repacking our bags, a relaxed morning felt nice.
Our driver first brought us to Stonehenge, about an hour from Bath. Before arriving, we had downloaded the audio tour provided by English Heritage Society, which added a lot to the experience. Standing in front of Stonehenge in person is one of those moments where you suddenly realize just how ancient human history really is.
The monument dates back roughly 4,500 years ago, with the earliest construction believed to have begun around 3,000 BC and the larger standing stones added later around 2,500 BC. Historians and archaeologists still debate exactly how the stones were transported and assembled, especially considering some of the smaller “bluestones” were brought from Wales, over 150 miles away. It is incredible to think about the planning, engineering, and sheer effort required to create something so massive without modern tools or machinery.
While many details remain unknown, Stonehenge is widely believed to have served ceremonial and burial purposes, with strong connections to the summer and winter solstices. The stones are carefully aligned with the movement of the sun, particularly sunrise on the summer solstice and sunset on the winter solstice. Even thousands of years later, the precision of the layout is remarkable.
We spent quite a while walking the path around the monument, listening to the stories and theories through the audio guide, and simply taking it all in. It really is one of those places that feels both mysterious and awe-inspiring at the same time.
Map OverviewSolstice LineA Great Bustard
After our visit, and a quick lunch in the café, we climbed back into the taxi for the just-over-two-hour drive to London. We arrived at our hotel shortly before 4:00 PM and decided we should get out and explore our new neighborhood for this part of the trip: Marylebone.
We wandered along Marylebone High Street, which was lined with cafés, bakeries, bookstores, and stylish shops. Along the way we passed Marylebone Town Hall and counted four different wedding parties coming and going. Apparently Sunday is a very popular wedding day in London!
A little farther down the street we found ourselves outside the elegant Landmark London hotel. We stepped inside “just to look around” and immediately found ourselves admiring the hotel’s stunning glass-covered atrium filled with towering palm trees and natural light. Since it was well past our normal tea time, we decided it only made sense to stay for tea and scones. Sometimes you simply have to make sacrifices for the sake of the travel experience.
After our snack break we attempted to continue toward Regent’s Park, but the weather had other ideas. Rain arrived unexpectedly and, unfortunately, neither of us had packed raincoats for the evening stroll. With our plans officially dampened, we headed back toward the hotel.
A cocktail and dinner at the restaurant connected to our hotel, followed by a quiet evening to relax, turned out to be the perfect ending to another wonderful day in England.
Hammond Adventures 