Hammond Adventures

Final Day in England – Tea, Toys & Treasured London Traditions

Posted on May 27, 2026 by Greg

DAY 18 – THURSDAY, MAY 21, 2026

This was the final full day of our trip, and Karen decided we should end our London adventure in style. A shopping day!

After packing up and checking out of our hotel, we left our luggage with the concierge and set out for our first stop just a couple of blocks away: the famous Selfridges department store. Breakfast was also part of the plan, so we headed straight for the Foodhall entrance. As we approached, we were surprised to see a very long roped-off line stretching down the sidewalk. We could not imagine that this many people were waiting for breakfast.

Once inside, we discovered the line had nothing to do with food. Designer Anya Hindmarch had collaborated with Selfridges on a new release of their trademark yellow reusable shopping bags, and they had just gone on sale at 10:00 AM. Apparently this was a major event. London shoppers do not mess around when it comes to limited-edition bags!

After navigating around the special checkout area devoted entirely to bag sales, we explored the Foodhall, which felt part gourmet grocery store and part luxury grab-and-go market. Since the café there was not yet open, we were directed upstairs to the beautifully named Brasserie of Light.

The restaurant absolutely lived up to its name. Sunlight poured through enormous windows, mirrors reflected light throughout the room, and the centerpiece was an enormous sparkling silver Pegasus sculpture mounted dramatically on the wall. It was quite a sight first thing in the morning.

We enjoyed a delicious and reasonably priced breakfast while soaking in the bright, glamorous atmosphere. Clearly the department store has mastered the art of encouraging shoppers to linger a little longer.

After breakfast we wandered through the rest of Selfridges. It was mostly window shopping for us, though we did circle back and pick up a few of the famous yellow reusable bags once the crowds had disappeared.

About a ten-minute walk away was another iconic London shopping destination, Liberty London. The store itself may actually be more beautiful than the merchandise inside. Housed in a Tudor Revival building with dark wood beams, creaking wooden floors, and grand staircases, it feels more like walking through an old manor house than a department store.

The center of the building features large atrium-like spaces topped with glass ceilings that flood the interior with natural light. While Liberty carries many brands, the store is still famous for its signature Liberty of London floral prints and fabrics. The top floor showcases rows and rows of fabric bolts in every imaginable pattern and color. It was genuinely fun browsing through them all, though it is possible Karen enjoyed this portion of the day just a little more than Greg did.

From Liberty we walked around the corner to Hamleys, the legendary toy store on Regent Street. Even though we were not shopping for toys, it was impossible not to enjoy exploring the six floors packed with games, gadgets, and demonstrations. Around every corner an enthusiastic employee was launching flying toys, performing magic tricks, or racing miniature cars. We can only imagine how chaotic and exciting the store must feel during the holidays.

Just a few minutes later we arrived at the destination that had inspired this entire shopping-themed day: afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason.

We had reservations for afternoon tea in the elegant Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon. The room was beautifully decorated, a pianist played softly on a grand piano, and many guests were dressed up for the occasion. It made for excellent people watching. We ordered the traditional afternoon tea, with Karen beginning with a glass of champagne while Greg chose a sparkling peach iced tea.

The tea service itself was an experience. We each selected our own tea from a menu featuring more than 50 varieties. Soon a beautiful three-tiered silver tray arrived at the table. The bottom tier held finger sandwiches including smoked salmon, cucumber, egg salad, ham, and Coronation chicken salad, a curried chicken salad created for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. The middle tier featured warm scones served with strawberry jam and thick clotted cream. The top tier was filled with delicate two-bite desserts that looked almost too pretty to eat.

Almost.

One of the lovely traditions of afternoon tea is that you are encouraged to request more of anything you would like. Over the course of nearly two hours we enjoyed multiple pots of tea, but after all the sandwiches, scones, and desserts we simply did not have room for additional food. We eventually packed some desserts up to take with us. It was one of those wonderfully indulgent experiences that simply feels quintessentially London.

Afterward we explored the rest of Fortnum & Mason. By now we had noticed that each iconic London department store seems to have its own signature color. Selfridges is bright yellow, Liberty is deep purple, and Fortnum & Mason is unmistakably teal. The store’s stunning teal spiral staircase sits at the center of the building and ties everything together beautifully.

The ground floor is filled with teas, biscuits, preserves, and beautifully packaged treats, while upper floors feature china, linens, cookware, and specialty gifts. There were even departments dedicated to picnic baskets and all the accessories needed to stock them properly. The entire store feels less like shopping and more like stepping into a carefully designed experience.

By the time we left Fortnum & Mason we were definitely ready to walk off some of our afternoon tea, so we made the thirty-minute walk back toward the original Twinings tea shop. We had visited the store on our second day in London but avoided buying much since we still had our entire Cotswolds hiking adventure ahead of us. Now, with the hiking portion of the trip behind us, we could browse much more freely. We sampled teas, picked up a few favorites, and enjoyed one last proper London tea-shopping experience.

By late afternoon we were officially shopped out. We slowly made our way back toward the hotel, stopping along the way for one final British gin and tonic while enjoying the unexpectedly warm weather. We could hardly believe London had reached the mid-70s.

After collecting our luggage, we grabbed an Uber to what we thought was our airport hotel for the night before our morning flight.

And then came our final unexpected British adventure.

Our Uber dropped us off at the Heathrow Hilton Garden Inn. Unfortunately, when we checked in, the front desk could not find our reservation. After several confused minutes, we discovered there are apparently three Hilton properties at Heathrow, including two different Hilton Garden Inns.

Really?!?

So we called another Uber and took a fifteen-minute, two-mile ride to the correct hotel. Thankfully we had built in plenty of extra time, and the second hotel turned out to be connected to Terminal 2 by a pedestrian bridge, meaning no additional transportation would be needed in the morning.

After finally checking in, we grabbed a light dinner and spent the evening playing suitcase Jenga as we attempted to fit hiking boots, souvenirs, tea tins, and shopping purchases into our luggage.

The next morning we were up bright and early for the walk to the airport and our flight home to Boston.

Farewell to a wonderful British vacation!

Day 17 in England – Chelsea in Bloom and Hidden Corners of London

Posted on May 24, 2026 by Greg

DAY 17 – WEDNESDAY, MAY 20, 2026

We decided today was the perfect day to take a break from museums and palaces. With temperatures expected to reach the upper 60s, it seemed like ideal weather to explore a few new-to-us London neighborhoods. So after a hearty breakfast, we set out on foot for another day of adventure.

As it turns out, we were in London during the same week as the famous Chelsea Flower Show, purely by coincidence. This massive annual event draws visitors from around the world. While we did not have tickets to the flower show itself, we had read that nearby neighborhoods celebrate with elaborate floral displays throughout the streets and storefronts.

We began our “tour” with about a 30-minute walk to the Belgravia neighborhood. Once there, we followed a self-guided walking route through charming residential streets lined with elegant white townhouses and tucked-away garden squares. Along the way we passed several storefronts decorated with lovely floral displays. We ooohhhed and ahhhhed, not realizing that this was only the warm-up act for what was ahead.

During our walk through Belgravia we came across another one of London’s historical markers, this one noting the house where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived while visiting London as a child. Remarkably, Mozart was only eight years old when he composed his Symphony No. 1 there in 1764. It is hard to imagine creating a symphony at that age when most eight-year-olds are still working on elementary school homework! Moments like this are one of the things we have loved most about London. Around almost every corner there seems to be another fascinating piece of history hiding in plain sight.

We stopped for lunch at a local restaurant and were lucky to grab the last two seats at the bar. As we looked around, we noticed the restaurant was absolutely packed, and most of the customers were women dressed in colorful floral dresses and hats, clearly showing that this flower show must be a really big deal!

After lunch we walked about 10 minutes to the Chelsea neighborhood, where we had read about a free public event called “Chelsea in Bloom.” Apparently, we were not the only people who had heard about it. The streets were absolutely thronged with people.

Greg, who enjoys carefully setting up the perfect photo, was slightly frustrated by the constant stream of people walking directly in front of him at all times. That minor challenge aside, we were completely wowed by what we saw. There were five large floral installations spread throughout the neighborhood, each more creative than the last. In addition, many of the shops and restaurants had elaborate floral displays decorating their storefronts.

This year’s theme was “Out of This World,” so we saw enormous floral suns, moons, planets, astronauts, galaxies, and even a few aliens. It was genuinely stunning, and we felt incredibly lucky that our timing happened to line up perfectly with the event.

After several hours weaving through crowds and admiring flowers, we were ready for a quieter activity and realized it was tea time. We were determined to enjoy one more cream tea before leaving the UK. During our time in the Cotswolds, nearly every village seemed to have multiple tea rooms, and even the pubs happily served tea and scones. London, however, proved a bit different. There were countless places offering elaborate and expensive traditional afternoon teas, but finding a simple cream tea with just scones and tea took more effort than expected.

Thankfully, persistence paid off. After another 20-minute walk, we found a small tea room where we could finally sit down and rest our feet for a bit. The scones were not the best we had during the trip, but at that point we were simply grateful for tea, chairs, and a moment of peace.

With renewed energy, we decided to explore one final area before dinner. This time we hopped on the Tube and headed to Little Venice. Hidden within the middle of London is a peaceful canal area lined with colorful narrowboats and houseboats. Some boats offer canal tours or act as water taxis, while others have been converted into floating cafes, coffee shops, or even hotel accommodations. We passed one boat available to rent overnight and another operating as a puppet theater barge.

Just as we wandered farther along the canal, it began to rain. London doing London things. We quickly ducked into a Tube station to regroup and plan our next steps.

Another nice bonus of our trip coinciding with the Chelsea Flower Show was the opportunity to briefly catch up with two close friends who used to live in West Hartford and now live in North Carolina. They were in London for the flower show, so we met up with them for a drink at their hotel bar. It felt funny that we all had to fly to London in order to see each other!

Afterward, we took the Tube back toward our hotel and stopped at a cozy neighborhood pub just a block away for a late dinner. It was the perfect ending to another wonderful day in London.

Another great London day in the books. Only one more day before our England adventure comes to an end!

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: Belgravia London, Chelsea Flower Show, Chelsea in Bloom, cream tea London, floral displays London, Little Venice London, London canal walks, London neighborhoods, London travel blog, Mozart London house | Leave a comment

Day 16 in England – From the Tower of London to the Sky Garden

Posted on May 23, 2026 by Greg

DAY 16 – TUESDAY, MAY 19, 2026

This morning we were up and out again with only enough time for a quick pastry breakfast before heading to the Tube. We arrived at the Tower of London just in time for our 10:00-10:30 AM ticketed entry window.

Once inside the Tower grounds, we started our visit with a free 45-minute tour led by a Yeoman Warder, better known by the nickname “Beefeater.” The Yeoman Warders were established by King Henry VII in 1485 as royal bodyguards and guardians of prisoners. According to our guide, the nickname “Beefeater” came from the fact that while much of the population survived on modest meals of chicken or pigeon, these guards were provided with generous beef rations to keep up their strength.

Since records began in 1826, there have only been 425 Beefeaters. To qualify, applicants must be honorably retired after at least 22 years of military service and have an unblemished record. Once appointed, they and their families live within the Tower grounds. Today there are about 35 active Beefeaters (men and women) whose duties include leading tours, answering questions, and participating in the Ceremony of the Keys, the nightly locking of the Tower that has taken place for more than 700 years.

Fun fact: Beefeater Gin got its name after the company wanted to use an iconic British symbol for branding. According to our guide, the military and police declined, but the Beefeaters agreed on one condition: every Beefeater receives a complimentary bottle of gin on their birthday each year!

We thoroughly enjoyed the tour, although it turned out to be less of a walking tour and more of a storytelling session about the Tower’s history. Our Beefeater guide was fantastic. He spoke loudly enough for the huge crowd to hear, and he was animated, personable, and genuinely funny. His commentary blended humor with plenty of fascinating history.

After the tour, we spent a little time visiting the famous ravens that live on the Tower grounds. Legend says that if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the monarchy will fall. To prevent that possibility, eight ravens are kept there at all times. They are extremely well cared for, although their wings are clipped so they cannot fly far away.

Next, we toured the White Tower, the iconic central building of the complex. Inside we saw displays of armor and weaponry, along with several chilling artifacts, including an execution block and axe. On an upper floor we visited St. John’s Chapel, one of the oldest surviving church interiors in London.

We then joined the line to see the Crown Jewels. Unfortunately photography is not allowed, so you will have to trust us on this one. That is some serious bling! Kings and queens definitely earned a workout carrying the enormous crowns, scepters, orbs, and elaborate ceremonial robes.

We also explored the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, where three British queens are buried, the Beauchamp Tower with its haunting prisoner carvings etched into the stone walls, and the Bloody Tower, infamous as the final home of the two young princes whose remains were discovered centuries later. Spoiler alert: history strongly suggests their uncle had them killed so he could take the throne himself.

Before leaving, we walked along part of the medieval wall, which offered excellent views of the much newer Tower Bridge, completed in 1894. Altogether, it was a fascinating morning packed with centuries of sometimes gruesome history.

By the time we left, it was nearly 2:00 PM and we were very hungry. We crossed London Bridge to the Bankside area and made our way to Borough Market, a massive food market filled with cheesemongers, fish stalls, butchers, bakeries, and food vendors from around the world. Greg went with paella while Karen chose wild mushroom risotto. Both were excellent.

After lunch we were fortified enough to tackle another Rick Steves walking tour. Along the way we passed Southwark Cathedral, where film crews were setting up. At this point we are beginning to suspect we may accidentally be wandering through the background of several British TV shows.

We also walked past a replica of the Golden Hinde, the ship Sir Francis Drake sailed around the world, and the ruins of Winchester Palace, where the Bishops of Winchester once grew wealthy through businesses tied to gambling and prostitution. That history helped give the south side of London its rather rough reputation centuries ago.

Next we passed the site of Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre, which famously burned down in 1613 during a performance of Henry VIII before eventually being rebuilt nearby. Right about then the rain arrived, so we pulled up our hoods and made our way to the Tate Modern, housed inside a former power station. Modern art may not entirely be our thing, but it was free, dry, and home to several famous works, including Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe diptych.

When we stepped back outside, the skies had cleared, so we wandered over to the Sky Garden at the top of London’s “Cheese Grater” skyscraper. The gardens occupy the top three floors and feature tropical plants spread throughout a soaring glass atrium with incredible panoramic views across the city. We spent quite a while walking around, taking pictures, and enjoying the scenery before settling in for a drink.

We had dinner reservations at the Darwin Restaurant, located right inside the gardens, which made for a pretty memorable setting for dinner.

When we came out afterward, we discovered a beautiful evening waiting for us. One thing we have really enjoyed about England is how late the sun sets compared to Connecticut. It stays light well after 9:00 PM this time of year. With pleasant temperatures and daylight still lingering, we decided to walk the three miles back to our hotel. By the time we arrived, we had definitely walked off dinner.

It was another wonderful and very full London day.

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: Beefeaters, Borough Market, Crown Jewels, London, London travel blog, Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, Sky Garden London, South Bank London, Tower Bridge, Tower of London | Leave a comment

Day 15 in England – Changing of the Guard, Westminster Abbey, and The Devil Wears Prada

Posted on May 22, 2026 by Greg

DAY 15 – MONDAY, MAY 18, 2026

After a good night’s sleep, we were up and ready to tackle another full day in London. We left our hotel and grabbed a quick pastry and coffee/tea from a nearby café before making our way to Buckingham Palace.

Even though we arrived well before the 11:00 AM Changing of the Guards ceremony, apparently several hundred other tourists had the exact same plan. We slowly worked our way along the fence line until we finally secured a spot with a decent view into the palace courtyard. In the end, the effort paid off.

The ceremony itself was impressive to watch. The incoming guards marched in with military precision while the outgoing guards prepared to end their shift. One of the funniest surprises came from the band, which mixed traditional music with a very unexpected rendition of “Danger Zone” from Top Gun. Hearing that while standing in front of Buckingham Palace was not something we had anticipated, but the crowd absolutely loved it.

Another thing we found interesting was that the actual changing of the guards was far less dramatic than we expected. While the band and marching formations drew everyone’s attention, the real exchange of the guards happened rather quietly and efficiently in the background. It turns out the spectacle is as much about ceremony and tradition as the actual shift change itself.

After the ceremony ended and the guards paraded away, we wandered toward Westminster Abbey for our 1:30 PM tour. Since we had a little extra time, we decided to stop for lunch nearby. A Google search led us to One Great George Street, which turned out to be a hidden gem. The building serves as the headquarters for the Institution of Civil Engineers and also contains a café open to the public.

We poked our heads into the stunning Great Hall and admired the beautiful domed atrium before heading downstairs to the café. It ended up being one of our favorite lunch stops of the trip. The cafeteria-style café offered delicious and surprisingly inexpensive food in a quiet and comfortable setting. Better yet, while we were eating, a rain shower rolled through London. By the time we finished lunch, the rain had stopped and the sun was beginning to reappear. Perfect timing.

From there it was just a short walk to Westminster Abbey, where our timed-entry tickets allowed us to walk right in. We spent the next couple of hours exploring this enormous and historically significant church. Everywhere you looked there were memorials, statues, and tombs honoring Britain’s most famous figures. It truly felt like a who’s who of British history.

Several kings and queens are buried within the Abbey, along with scientists, military leaders, politicians, writers, and artists. One of our favorite areas was Poet’s Corner, filled with memorials to literary legends including Geoffrey Chaucer, Charles Dickens, Rudyard Kipling, and many others.

We had also purchased tickets for access to the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, located high above the Abbey near the roofline. After climbing several flights of stairs, we were rewarded with incredible views overlooking the interior of the Abbey along with fascinating exhibits about its history and treasures. The galleries contained a number of historical artifacts, including a copy of the Magna Carta. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed, so you will just have to trust us when we say it was absolutely worth the extra ticket.

When we finished at the Abbey, we realized we were perfectly positioned to follow another Rick Steves walking tour, this one through Westminster. The route took us past Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Parliament Square, and up Whitehall past numerous monuments and government buildings.

Quite by accident, our timing once again worked out perfectly. We arrived at the Royal Horse Guards just as the Dismounting Ceremony was beginning for the day. We watched as the mounted guards were relieved of duty, dismounted, and led their horses back in for the evening. It felt like one of those unexpected travel moments you could never really plan for.

Our walk eventually brought us to Trafalgar Square, where we still had a little time before dinner. Since the National Gallery sits right on the square and offers free admission, we decided to spend about 45 minutes exploring. We headed directly to the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist rooms and enjoyed seeing works by artists whose paintings we instantly recognized. It was a quick visit, but a wonderful one.

For dinner, we stopped at a pub in London’s West End before heading to the Dominion Theatre to see The Devil Wears Prada. The musical follows the same basic storyline as the movie and features music by Sir Elton John. It was a fun and entertaining production and seemed especially timely with the sequel now playing in movie theaters.

After the show, we enjoyed a final 20-minute walk back to our hotel through the London streets, adding a few more steps to an already full day before calling it a night and getting ready for another day of adventures in London.

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: Buckingham Palace, Changing of the Guard, Devil Wears Prada musical, England travel blog, London travel, London walking tour, London West End, National Gallery London, Westminster Abbey, Westminster London | Leave a comment

Day 14 in England – A Perfectly British Day: Stonehenge, Scones, and Rain

Posted on May 21, 2026 by Greg

DAY 14 – SUNDAY, MAY 17, 2026

We enjoyed a slower start to the day with breakfast at our hotel before packing up and getting ready for our 10:30 AM taxi pickup. After several days of hiking, sightseeing, and constantly repacking our bags, a relaxed morning felt nice.

Our driver first brought us to Stonehenge, about an hour from Bath. Before arriving, we had downloaded the audio tour provided by English Heritage Society, which added a lot to the experience. Standing in front of Stonehenge in person is one of those moments where you suddenly realize just how ancient human history really is.

The monument dates back roughly 4,500 years ago, with the earliest construction believed to have begun around 3,000 BC and the larger standing stones added later around 2,500 BC. Historians and archaeologists still debate exactly how the stones were transported and assembled, especially considering some of the smaller “bluestones” were brought from Wales, over 150 miles away. It is incredible to think about the planning, engineering, and sheer effort required to create something so massive without modern tools or machinery.

While many details remain unknown, Stonehenge is widely believed to have served ceremonial and burial purposes, with strong connections to the summer and winter solstices. The stones are carefully aligned with the movement of the sun, particularly sunrise on the summer solstice and sunset on the winter solstice. Even thousands of years later, the precision of the layout is remarkable.

We spent quite a while walking the path around the monument, listening to the stories and theories through the audio guide, and simply taking it all in. It really is one of those places that feels both mysterious and awe-inspiring at the same time.

After our visit, and a quick lunch in the café, we climbed back into the taxi for the just-over-two-hour drive to London. We arrived at our hotel shortly before 4:00 PM and decided we should get out and explore our new neighborhood for this part of the trip: Marylebone.

We wandered along Marylebone High Street, which was lined with cafés, bakeries, bookstores, and stylish shops. Along the way we passed Marylebone Town Hall and counted four different wedding parties coming and going. Apparently Sunday is a very popular wedding day in London!

A little farther down the street we found ourselves outside the elegant Landmark London hotel. We stepped inside “just to look around” and immediately found ourselves admiring the hotel’s stunning glass-covered atrium filled with towering palm trees and natural light. Since it was well past our normal tea time, we decided it only made sense to stay for tea and scones. Sometimes you simply have to make sacrifices for the sake of the travel experience.

After our snack break we attempted to continue toward Regent’s Park, but the weather had other ideas. Rain arrived unexpectedly and, unfortunately, neither of us had packed raincoats for the evening stroll. With our plans officially dampened, we headed back toward the hotel.

A cocktail and dinner at the restaurant connected to our hotel, followed by a quiet evening to relax, turned out to be the perfect ending to another wonderful day in England.

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: afternoon tea in London, Bath to London, England itinerary, England travel blog, English Heritage, Landmark London hotel, London travel, Marylebone, Regent's Park, Stonehenge | Leave a comment

Day 13 in England – From Roman Baths to Rooftop Views: Exploring Bath

Posted on May 20, 2026 by Greg

DAY 13 – SATURDAY, MAY 16, 2026

After a week of packing our bags every morning in the Cotswolds, it felt wonderful to wake up knowing we were staying put for two nights. We happily slept in a bit, still catching up on rest after our hiking adventure.

Our first stop of the day was one final Bridgerton filming location. The beautiful Holburne Museum is just a block from our hotel and serves as the exterior of Lady Danbury’s house in the series. While we did not tour the museum itself, we did enjoy breakfast in the lovely café.

After breakfast we wandered through Sydney Gardens, the historic park located just behind the museum. Dating back to the late 1700s, it is one of England’s few surviving Georgian pleasure gardens and was a favorite walking spot of Jane Austen during the years she lived in Bath. With tree-lined paths, flowers blooming, and the Kennet & Avon Canal passing nearby, it was easy to see why she enjoyed spending time there.

From the gardens we walked down the grand Great Pulteney Street, lined with long rows of elegant Georgian townhouses. Designed in the late 1700s to rival the grand boulevards of Paris, the street feels incredibly wide and stately compared to many of Bath’s smaller lanes. We crossed the iconic Pulteney Bridge, one of only a handful of bridges in the world built with shops lining both sides.

Our next destination was Bath Abbey. For a small admission fee, valid all day, we were able to explore the inside of this stunning church at our own pace. The soaring fan-vaulted ceiling immediately caught our attention. The stonework creates an intricate web overhead that somehow looks both impossibly delicate and incredibly massive at the same time. If you look closely at the ceiling, there really are no corners, which gives the entire space a unique appearance.

The Abbey itself has stood on this site in some form for over 1,200 years, though most of the current structure dates to the late 1400s. It is also the site where the first King of England, King Edgar, was crowned in 973 AD.

After spending some time admiring the architecture and memorials, we purchased additional tickets to return later in the afternoon for the tower tour.

Leaving the Abbey, we had just enough time to grab a pasty, a warm savory pastry filled with meat, potatoes, and vegetables, and enjoy some people watching in the main square. Bath was bustling on this Saturday afternoon. Between tourists, street musicians, and multiple hen parties roaming through town in coordinated outfits, there was never a dull moment.

At 1:00 PM we entered the fascinating Roman Baths. The excellent audio guide walked us through three underground levels that were part museum and part ancient ruins. It is remarkable to think about the engineering required to build and maintain this enormous bathing complex nearly 2,000 years ago.

The “King’s Spring” still produces roughly 257,000 gallons of mineral-rich hot water every day. When the water emerges from underground, it is naturally heated to about 115°F (46°C). Today, the spring water helps supply modern spas and even geothermally heats local buildings, including Bath Abbey, which now has radiant heating beneath its floor.

As we toured the baths, we learned that the Romans strongly believed in the health benefits of alternating hot and cold temperatures. The complex included not only the main hot bath, but also cold plunge pools, steam rooms, heated chambers with fires beneath raised floors, and even exercise areas. Apparently wellness trends, recovery routines, and hot-cold therapy are not nearly as modern as we sometimes think.

We ended our visit by tasting the mineral water ourselves. While the Romans bathed in it, many visitors in the 1700s and 1800s believed drinking the water promoted good health. We hope they are right.

After a couple of hours exploring the Baths, we were more than ready for afternoon tea, which has quickly become one of our favorite daily routines. We found a small Georgian tea room where Karen enjoyed a traditional cream tea while Greg opted for lemon lime cake alongside his tea. Absolutely delicious.

Refreshed and renergized, we returned to Bath Abbey for our “tower tour.” Calling it a tower tour turned out to be slightly misleading because the tower itself is currently under renovation and visitors cannot actually go into it. Still, the tour ended up being one of the most unique experiences of the day.

We climbed a narrow circular staircase to the Bishop’s Gallery, where visiting bishops historically could wave to crowds gathered below. From there we continued up another spiral staircase and carefully crossed a narrow rooftop walkway with wonderful views across Bath.

Eventually we reached the bell room. While we could not see the bells themselves because they are housed higher in the tower, our guides provided information about English change ringing, where teams of people pull ropes in precise mathematical patterns to create constantly changing bell sequences, and the various other ringing mechanisms in the tower.

We also squeezed into tiny spaces to see the Abbey’s clock mechanism and even viewed a ventilation hole cut into the ceiling centuries ago because conditions inside the church had become, well… unpleasant. With people buried beneath the Abbey floor, warmer weather apparently created some challenges.

And there are a lot of people buried there. In total, more than 6,000 bodies lie beneath the Abbey floor, with over 1,500 memorials throughout the church. You could spend hours simply reading the plaques, inscriptions, and engraved floor tiles imagining the stories behind them.

Once back on the street, we wandered through a few shops before the light rain gradually became a steadier drizzle. That seemed like the perfect excuse to stop at Bath Brew House, where Greg sampled a couple of local beers while Karen tried a berry cider from Sweden.

After dinner on the way back to the hotel, we settled into our room for a relaxing evening and, naturally, watched a little more Bridgerton before bed.

Tomorrow begins Part 4 of our trip!

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: afternoon tea in Bath, Bath Abbey, Bath England, Bridgerton filming locations, England travel blog, Holburne Museum, Jane Austen Bath, Pulteney Bridge, Roman Baths, Sydney Gardens | Leave a comment

Day 5 in Malta – Blue Grotto and Goodbye Malta

Posted on May 20, 2026 by Kelsey

On Saturday, May 9, I had one remaining thing on my Malta bucket list (although I would love to go back sometime). I got up and packed my suitcase and got ready to check out of my apartment. I got my last pastry and iced tea from the cafe across the street and sat at my covered balcony to take in the beautiful view for the last time. I took my luggage to a nearby storage location for the day and headed off on my daily adventure.

Houses in my neighborhood, I love the architecture!

I got on the bus towards the Blue Grotto, which is on the southwest coast, and it was very crowded as we went through the busier areas of Sliema and Valleta. Once we got outside of the main cities though, it got a lot emptier. I had to change buses once, and was happy that the next bus came just a few minutes later, so I made it to the Blue Grotto in about an hour.

Once I arrived I walked down the short boardwalk to a lookout spot, which had the most beautiful view of the cliffs and the large rock formations and caves called the Blue Grotto. It turned out to be a much clearer day and I was so glad I made the trip to see this incredible landscape.

After spending a few minutes enjoying the view, I started to walk down the path towards the area where you can get on a boat to see the Blue Grotto up close. It was an enjoyable walk along the coast and I eventually reached a couple restaurants and souvenir shops, which led down to the boat service where you pay €10 for a ticket and then wait in line until there is a boat available. It wasn’t terribly crowded, so I only waited about five minutes until I was able to join a couple other people on a small, colorful boat.

The boat driver took us out of the small bay and into some of the caves along the coast and pointed out different rock formations and things we were seeing. It was perfect weather and the water looked so clear and blue, I thought it looked like a great place to swim, although when we felt the water it was definitely cold. When we got to the Blue Grotto it was amazing to see it from this different perspective. We saw more coral underneath the water, and some areas with white sand below, so the water looked especially bright and even reflected up onto the ceiling of the cave. It was truly magical!

After about 20 minutes we headed back to the dock and I could say this was well worth the trip- one of my highlights of the week for sure!

I walked back up to the bus stop and waited for the next bus that would take me straight back to Valletta. I decided I would have just enough time to make a couple last stops in the capital city and take the ferry back to Sliema to get my luggage before having to go to the airport. In Valletta I got my last pastizzi of the trip, walked through the streets noticing places I first learned about on my first day walking tour, and got a bubble tea from Tea Fusion again. I stopped into a couple shops along the way and then made my way to the Sliema ferry, where I got to enjoy a trip across the harbor one last time.

I picked up my luggage and took the express bus to the airport. It was pretty busy at the airport drop off and I was in the front seat, so I got to watch the bus driver parallel park this huge coach bus, which I thought was particularly impressive. Once in the airport I got through security quickly and found out that the Malta airport is pretty small, and everyone has to just wait in a big communal area until their gate is called. It was packed when I first got there, and there were only a couple options for food, but I found a seat at one of the restaurants and decided to get dinner and try Kinnie, a Maltese soda, that I had heard about but was a little scared to try at first. The tour guide on the first day told us that people either love or hate it, but since I know root beer has that reputation as well and I love root beer I thought I would give it a try. After all, this was pretty much my last chance. I could see the similarity with root beer, but it was more of an orange flavor with a bitter aftertaste. I don’t know that I would have it again, but it wasn’t horrible.

Once my flight was finally called, I boarded the flight and was happy to see that I again did not have anyone sitting next to me. Taking off was a very cool experience because I could see so much of the island. It’s so small that as we turned I could recognize several of the cities and places I had been.

It was just a three hour flight back to Copenhagen, where I had an overnight layover. Because of this, I was excited to take advantage of being able to get a full night’s rest and have a few hours in the morning to explore the city. Copenhagen is a great place for a layover as well because it is so quick and easy to get from the airport into the center of the city. Within 30 minutes I had taken the metro and walked the few more minutes to my hotel. I was a little hungry, so stopped by a churro stand on the way, and I saw a huge banner saying the Copenhagen Marathon- May 10, 2026. I thought, wait, that’s tomorrow! I had no idea until then, but was excited to see what that would be like the next day for my morning in Copenhagen- stay tuned!

Categories: Malta - May 2026 | Tags: Travel, Valletta, Sliema, malta, europe, Blue Grotto, Boat, Architecture, adventure, nature | Leave a comment

Day 12 in England – Exploring Bath: Roman History, Bridgerton, and Bath Buns

Posted on May 19, 2026 by Greg

Photo in front of the Royal Crescent in Bath

DAY 12 – FRIDAY, MAY 15, 2026

Today marked the beginning of Part 3 of our trip. With a different pace ahead of us, the morning felt much more relaxed. After breakfast at our hotel, we packed our suitcases, loaded them into a taxi, and were on our way.

As we drove along, we said goodbye to the Cotswolds. We absolutely loved spending time in this beautiful part of England, though we were surprised at how quickly the towns passed by when driving. Places that had taken us hours of walking, climbing hills, and crossing fields suddenly seemed only minutes apart by car!

About 90 minutes later we arrived in Bath. After quickly dropping our luggage at the hotel, we headed out to explore. Within a 10-minute walk we found ourselves right in the city center. It took a moment to adjust to the hustle and bustle after a week in the quiet countryside. We probably saw more people standing in the square near Bath Abbey than we had seen on our walk in the Cotswolds over the previous week!

Our first priority was lunch. We ducked into a coffee shop right on Pulteney Bridge so we could enjoy a pasty, a handheld meat pie, while overlooking the River Avon.

Later in the day we learned from our tour guide that “Avon” comes from an ancient Brittonic word simply meaning “river.” That explains why there are several different rivers throughout England all named River Avon. Apparently centuries ago, distinguishing one river from another was not considered especially important.

After lunch we headed to the square in front of Bath Abbey, where we found one of the city’s famous free walking tours. Bath has approximately 100 volunteers known as the Mayor’s Honorary Guides who lead free two-hour tours throughout the week. No tips are accepted. As our guide Martin explained, “We’re just a group of people who love our city.”

The tour was excellent and gave us both a great overview of Bath and plenty of historical context. Because of the area’s geothermal hot springs, Bath has been a destination since the Romans settled here around 60 AD. Much of the city we see today, however, dates to the Georgian and Regency periods of the 1700s, when Bath became a fashionable resort town designed to attract wealthy visitors seeking the therapeutic benefits of the baths.

One amusing detail we learned on our walking tour involved one of the statues to the left of the front entrance of Bath Abbey. According to our guide, the statue’s head was shot off during the civil war centuries ago. When stone carvers later restored it, they supposedly carved the replacement head out of the remaining beard, giving the figure some very unusual proportions. Whether entirely true or slightly embellished over the years, the result definitely looks a bit funny once you notice it, which naturally made it the perfect spot for a photo.

Beautiful Georgian architecture is everywhere in Bath. In addition to Bath Abbey, we visited landmarks including the Royal Crescent and The Circus. Both were revolutionary architectural concepts for their time, using sweeping curved rows of homes to create elegant communal living spaces centered around open green areas. Even today they feel remarkably modern and visually striking.

Unfortunately, about an hour into the tour, the skies opened up and the rain arrived. The tour ended about 25 minutes early, which naturally meant it was the perfect excuse for a tea break.

We headed to Sally Lunn’s, one of the oldest tea rooms in Bath. Sally Lunn is credited with creating the famous Bath Bun, which we quickly discovered is less “bun” and more “giant toasted hamburger roll.” Due to its enormous size, each order comes with only half a bun. Greg ordered the traditional version with clotted cream and strawberry jam, while Karen chose one topped with cinnamon butter. Both were delicious, though we agreed that traditional scones still hold the top spot in our rankings.

By the time we finished tea, the rain had stopped. We had planned to tour Bath Abbey, but learned it had closed early because the city was preparing for Party in the City, a huge annual music festival featuring dozens of performers scattered throughout Bath.

So we pivoted to Plan B: a self-guided Bridgerton tour.

It turns out much of the popular Netflix series was filmed in Bath, and we had a great time walking through locations we immediately recognized from the show. Even though we had already covered many of the same streets during our walking tour, seeing them through the lens of Bridgerton gave us a completely different perspective. Plus, the sunshine had returned, making it a perfect time for photos.

As we wrapped up the tour, we happened to pass the oldest pub in Bath, the Saracen’s Head. Since we were fully committed to absorbing as much Bath history as possible, stopping in felt like the responsible thing to do.

We found a quiet table tucked away from the live music that was starting. Apparently Charles Dickens appreciated this quieter corner as well. He was known to frequent the pub and reportedly worked on portions of The Pickwick Papers while sitting at a table directly across from where we were sitting.

For dinner, Karen’s research led us to a fun cocktail bar and restaurant called The Botanist. From the street, you enter through a narrow hallway that gives little hint of what is inside. Suddenly the space opens into a huge atrium with a massive tree rising through the center. The bar occupies the ground floor while the restaurant wraps around the second-floor balcony overlooking the lively scene below. We enjoyed both our meal and the entertainment of simply watching the crowd and activity around the bar.

Earlier in the day we had received a brochure listing all the Party in the City performances happening throughout Bath. Since we were already out exploring, we decided to check out some of the free music.

We eventually settled into a pub with seating downstairs and the band performing on an upper level. We grabbed drinks and found a table downstairs, which was still more than close enough to fully experience the volume of the music. While the band’s style was not exactly what we expected, we did recognize a few songs and enjoyed soaking in the festive atmosphere before finally calling it a night.

Back at the hotel, we ended the day by rewatching a couple episodes of Bridgerton. It was surprisingly fun recognizing many of the locations we had walked through earlier that day and seeing how Bath had been transformed into Regency London on screen.

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: Bath Abbey, Bath England, Bridgerton filming locations, England travel blog, Mayor's Honorary Guides Bath, Party in the City Bath, Pulteney Bridge, Royal Crescent Bath, Sally Lunn's Bath, The Circus Bath | Leave a comment

Day 11 in England – From Chipping Campden to Moreton-in-Marsh: Full Circle in the Cotswolds

Posted on May 18, 2026 by Greg

Photo on our way out of Chipping Campden

DAY 11 – THURSDAY, MAY 14, 2026

Today was our final day of hiking! While we absolutely loved exploring this stunning part of England, we were also looking forward to being done with the daily routine of “bags fully packed and out the door by 8:30 AM.”

Since today’s walk was only a little over seven miles, which now somehow felt “short” to us, we enjoyed a more leisurely breakfast and spent some extra time exploring Chipping Campden before heading out on the trail.

Chipping Campden turned out to be one of our favorite towns in the Cotswolds. The town became wealthy during the Middle Ages because of the wool trade, and many of the beautiful honey-colored limestone buildings still standing today were built with wool money hundreds of years ago. The broad High Street is lined with historic homes, inns, and shops, and it honestly felt like walking through a movie set.

We had read about free walking tours led by the village wardens, so we headed to the old Market Hall to meet the guide. The Market Hall, built in 1627, sits right in the center of town and once served as a covered marketplace where traders sold butter, poultry, cheese, and wool beneath its stone arches while staying dry from the English weather above. It is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Chipping Campden.

After waiting there for a while with no guide in sight, we eventually learned that the tours do not begin until late May. Fortunately, the tourist information center was directly across the street and provided a self-guided walking tour booklet instead.

We spent the next hour wandering through town learning about the history behind many of the buildings. One interesting thing we saw was a cartwash, one of only a few remaining in England. This stone-lined trench was filled with water so wagon wheels could roll through it. The water helped keep wooden wheels from drying out and shrinking, while also washing off mud during wet seasons. It was basically the medieval version of a car wash.

As we explored the town we also noticed several homes with sundials mounted high on the front walls. Before modern clocks became common, sundials were an important way for people to track the time using the position of the sun. Many homes in the Cotswolds still proudly display them, often with decorative inscriptions or family mottos. The one we photographed looked especially striking against the golden stone of the building, and it was another reminder of just how old many of these homes really are. It is funny to think that a house can casually have a centuries-old timepiece built into the front wall.

We also learned that William Oughtred, the inventor of the slide rule, was born in Chipping Campden. Long before calculators and smartphones, slide rules were used for complex calculations by engineers, scientists, and students. It is funny to think that something once considered cutting-edge technology is now mostly a museum piece.

Nearby we also saw the historic silk mill, a reminder that Chipping Campden became an important center for arts and crafts during the late 1800s and early 1900s. Even today the town still has a strong artisan culture with galleries, studios, and craft shops throughout the village.

After our tour around town, it was finally time to hit the trail again. Today’s route immediately began with a long uphill climb across open fields. It was a solid workout with very few sheep or gates available to distract us from the incline.

About three miles into the walk we arrived in the tiny village of Blockley. Almost immediately we noticed a lot of activity around the church. It looked like something was being filmed. We stopped into Blockley Café for lunch and learned that Blockley is one of the primary filming locations for the BBC series Father Brown.

For those unfamiliar with the show, Father Brown is a long-running British mystery series based loosely on stories by G.K. Chesterton. The main character is a Catholic priest with an uncanny ability to solve crimes in small English villages during the 1950s. Blockley serves as the fictional village of Kembleford in the series, and the church is regularly featured as “St. Mary’s.” The production team has even changed some of the signage around the church to match the fictional setting. Apparently filming in the village is common enough that locals are fairly unfazed by camera crews showing up.

Now, of course, we have another British series to add to our watch list.

While in the café we stopped for lunch, which was also our only real food option along today’s route. Thankfully, this was not just a fine lunch. It was an absolutely delicious lunch and exactly what we needed before the second half of the hike.

Back on the trail we were immediately greeted by another steep uphill climb through a pasture. We were so focused on leaning forward into the incline and trying not to step in the seemingly endless sheep poop that we almost forgot to turn around and enjoy the view behind us. Thankfully we did, because looking back revealed beautiful panoramic views over Blockley and the surrounding countryside.

From there we pressed onward as the trail gradually descended and flattened out. After woods, farmland, sheep, rolling fields, and a grand total of 22 gates, we suddenly found ourselves back in Moreton-in-Marsh, the same town where our walking tour had begun a week earlier. Our journey had officially come full circle.

Our first stop back in town was, naturally, a tea room. We had fully embraced the tradition of a cream tea each afternoon and saw no reason to stop now. After tea we spent a little more time walking through town since we had not explored much during our first stay there, and then we headed to our hotel.

As it turned out, we were assigned the exact same room we had stayed in a week earlier, although it somehow felt like we had been gone much longer than that. The moment we opened the door, Karen immediately stretched out on the bed for a very well-earned 45-minute nap.

After showers, stretching, and a little recovery time, we walked down the street to the Black Bear Inn for dinner. One thing we have really enjoyed throughout this trip is the atmosphere at the local inns and pubs. Every evening they seem to fill up with locals and travelers alike gathering for a pint before dinner. There is just something cozy and welcoming about it.

Tonight, though, a quiet evening sounded perfect. So after dinner we headed back to our room to relax and enjoy the fact that tomorrow’s travel adventure would involve something very different from hiking boots.

Tomorrow: onward by taxi!

Categories: 2026 England Adventure | Tags: Blockley England, British village travel, Chipping Campden, Cotswold Way walk, Cotswolds hiking, Cotswolds travel blog, England walking holiday, Father Brown filming locations, Moreton-in-Marsh, self-guided Cotswolds tour | Leave a comment

Day 4 in Malta – Mosta Dome, Mdina, and Dingli Cliffs

Posted on May 18, 2026 by Kelsey

On Friday, May 8, I planned another full day of sightseeing, and was excited to head towards the western part of the island to visit a couple locations that had been highly recommended. My first stop was Starbucks, since I am always curious what different types of pastries and drinks they have in other countries. I settled on a chocolate filled donut and cool lime refresher (my dad can attest this is the best flavor and has sadly been discontinued in the US). I took my treats and headed to the bus stop to get on the road to my first stop of the day, Mosta Rotunda.

Mosta Rotunda is a unique domed church in the city of Mosta and is the third largest unsupported dome in the world! It was built in the mid-19th century and replaced an older church once the population outgrew it. The architect decided to do something a bit different and create a circular layout with a huge dome, based on the Pantheon. I went inside and got an audio guide and was excited that the first stop was up in the gallery to view the dome. They are currently doing some restoration work, so there was a lift with people working inside the church, which I found very fascinating to watch. I couldn’t help but think how they must really not have a fear of heights to do that job.

Once I went back down to the ground level I continued the audio tour and learned about lots of different pieces of art and architecture around the church. The other interesting thing about the Mosta Rotunda is that during WWII a bomb actually fell through the roof during a service, but did not explode. It left a hole in the dome but because of the nature of its shape, it otherwise stayed completely in tact. The inhabitants now see this as a miracle and the bomb was displayed in one of the other rooms. The marble floor has also been left with damage from the bomb as a reminder of that moment. Once back outside I was able to go next door to the visitor center and watch a short video about the construction of the dome, which I thought was very interesting.

The areas of the ceiling that are still being restored

I went back to the bus stop to wait for the next bus and found out that what I had read online was true- there may be a schedule that is posted, but there is no guarantee that any bus will show up at the time you expect. I later found out that if you scan the QR code on the bus stop signs it will give you live updates for that stop and that was much more helpful. After waiting a little while, the bus finally arrived and I was on the way to Mdina, the medieval Silent City. On my way out of Mosta, however, I saw a sign on the side of the road that caught my eye. It had Millbrae, CA listed as a sister city and I thought what a small world, since I know people who live there!

Once I arrived in Mdina I actually saw my tour guide I had earlier in the week in Valletta finishing a tour- I guess Malta is a small enough place there are only so many tour guides! Since I was a bit hungry and I had some time before my walking tour, I decided to stop by a small restaurant called Is-Serkin, which I had read has the best pastizzi in all of Malta. It is located just outside the Mdina city gates and while I may not be a pastizzi expert, I definitely could tell the difference between this one and the last one I tried in Valletta. This one came straight from the oven, so the cheese was perfectly melted and the outside was super flaky and crunchy.

After finishing my snack, I decided to walk into Mdina and explore a little on my own. The walled city was truly magical to walk around, with all these small alleyways with the limestone buildings on each side. I expected it to be busier, but I guess it was a quiet day and I could see why it gets called the Silent City, especially as it got later in the afternoon.

I took some photos of the famous blue door, and then went to Palazzo Falson, a 13th century palazzo turned museum, which was really cool to see. It was owned by Maltese nobility and showcased lots of artwork and collections from over the centuries. I really enjoyed the audio tour here as well and it felt like I had the whole place to myself!

After the museum I had just enough time to stop by the Fontanella Tea Gardens, which I had read is known for their cakes and beautiful views. Mdina is built on the top of the hill, so when you look out over the walls you can see all the way to the Mediterranean. I got lucky and was seated right at the edge of the terrace, and was treated with a great view while I waited for my iced tea and chocolate cake (there were lots of cake options to choose from but they are famous for the chocolate so I thought I had to give it a try). The cake was delicious, and the ambiance made it even better, so this was the perfect stop to refuel before my free walking tour.

I could see Mosta Rotunda from where I was sitting

I then made my way back toward the Mdina city gates to meet my walking tour guide. As per usual, the tour was great and Ben, the guide, gave so much interesting history along with some interesting facts about Maltese culture. I found it particularly entertaining that he could point out cars that he believed belonged to nobility as we walked around. Mdina is still really just home to nobility and nuns, so the cars he said all belonged to people who either worked or lived there. When we would see an expensive car he could point out the license plate and say those letters stand for the last name of a noble family, etc. Apparently the Maltese really like their vanity license plates!

Baroque Mdina gate- you can see the older opening has been closed up to the right

After the tour finished up, I had just enough time to go back to look in some of the stores. Mdina is known for their glass and so there were several stores selling all sorts of glass objects, and I was able to pick out a vase to take home as a unique souvenir. I went to a Mdina restaurant for a quick dinner, and then decided I would try and make it to Dingli Cliffs for the sunset. This was highly recommended as some of the best views in Malta, but it had been another hazy day, so I wasn’t sure how the sunset would be. It was only a 15 minute bus ride away though, so I thought I would check it out.

From where the bus dropped me off I walked probably about a half mile down the coast to an area where you can get an excellent view of the cliffs. It was a beautiful walk and a great view at the end, even though the sunset was not terribly impressive. There were several other people doing the same thing, but I imagine on a clearer night the area is much more crowded.

After the sun set, it was starting to get dark so I decided to just call a Bolt (the Maltese version of Uber) and that took me back to my apartment in Sliema, on the exact other side of thr island. This trip, however, still only took half an hour which really solidified how small the country is. After a long day I had a relaxing evening enjoying the rooftop hot tub and reflecting on all the amazing places I had seen.

Categories: Malta - May 2026 | Tags: Dingli Cliffs, europe, history, malta, Mdina, Mosta Dome, Mosta Rotunda, Pastizzi, Rabat, Travel, Valletta | Leave a comment