Wednesday, July 10, 2024 – Day 12: A Day in Bruges, Belgium, the Venice of the North

For our last full day in Belgium we decided to return to Bruges for the day and experience a little more of Ghent in the evening. After a quick breakfast we headed to the train station for the 30 minute ride to Bruges.

Not far to catch a tram!

At the Ghent train station we were once again amazed at the number of bicycles. Belgium is known for its fantastic bike lanes and trails since cycling is a very popular mode of transportation, but you cannot imagine the number of bicycles parked at the train station. Take a look at my video and see where you would park your bike if you needed to find it again.

How do you find your bicycle?

We arrived in Bruges early enough to walk through the Wednesday morning outdoor market.  The market was filled with beautiful produce and a large variety of meat. These markets continued to amaze us.

With our earlier arrival in Bruges we noticed the streets were quite busy with more people than our visit the previous afternoon. There were many tour groups from different riverboat cruises.  On this Wednesday we experienced the Bruges tourism at a peak.  We found a little outdoor cafe for lunch and then headed off for one of Bruges iconic canal boat cruises.  These 30 minute boat rides run constantly along the canals in Bruges.  It was super touristy for sure, but a fun way to see the city from a different perspective and to hear a little more about its history.

By early afternoon we were ready for some refreshments so we headed to the Brouwerij de Halve Maan (Half Moon Brewery). This brewery offers an extensive tour sharing the history of how six generations of the family has helped the business adapt since 1856. An added bonus on the tour are the views from the brewery rooftop. A unique feature of this brewery is its pipeline.  In 2016 the business needed more space so they opened a new, very modern, bottling center about 2 miles away.  Wanting to keep the brewing in Bruges, it launched a successful crowdfunding campaign to build an underground pipeline that carries beer from the brewery to the bottling plant.  At the brewery you can see a small section of this unique pipeline, which is ingeniously environmental. The system is designed to not only carry beer but it also carries wastewater to a filtration system for reuse as clean water back at the brewery. 

A View of the Beer Pipeline

Fun fact:  The 500+ contributors who made the pipeline financially possible received free beer for life as a thank you.  If only I lived closer I would have invested!  We really enjoyed seeing the ins and outs of this old brewery, and then sitting in their lovely outdoor beer garden to sample a few.  Of particular note is the famous “Brugse Zot”  (Bruges Fool) beers.  The name and logo are a nod to a story from the 15th century when people of the area asked Emperor Maximllian (who they were not too fond of) to create a madhouse. His apparent dislike for the city showed in his response: “Close the gates of Bruges and you’ll have a madhouse.”  So the brewery has embraced the characterisation of the people of Bruges as fools.

On our way back to the Bruges train station we bought a few last souvenirs (delicious Belgian chocolate!) and then headed back to Ghent.  We walked into town for dinner at a wonderful restaurant recommended by one of our tour guides called ‘tklok huys.  We both enjoyed a traditional Flemish beef stew. 

Our evening plan was to join one more free walking tour – this one showing the hidden side of Ghent.  The tour shared areas of the town and a lot of history tourists generally do not see and learn. It was little more than we needed but an enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours in the evening. As a bonus, we found an ice cream shop open at the end!

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Tuesday, July 9, 2024 – Day 11: Our Day in Ghent and Bruges, Belgium

View from the Belfry in Ghent, Belgium

We set out in Ghent to explore new breakfast options.  We landed at O’Yo Healthy Foods on one of the many town squares where they specialize in all plant-based foods. I had a chia pudding bowl which was a welcome change from our mornings of French pastries.

O’Yo Healthy Foods for breakfast

Once fortified we headed to the Belfry of Ghent – a large bell and clock tower with the best views of the city.  Ghent is known for its iconic skyline that includes three large towers – the Belfry, St. Nicholas’ Church, and St. Bravo Cathedral.  We really enjoyed going up in this tower. It was completed in 1380 and is the tallest Belfry in Belgium. It now provides an elevator up and very, very narrow steps down. On the way up you learn about the history of the building, including seeing the original dragons that previously adorned the spire. The views from the top were amazing.  On the way down we stopped to see the various bells and the carillon cylinder.  Our timing was perfect to see it play.  It is incredible to think how the clock tower and bells ringing at specific times changed life in the middle ages.

carillon cylinder

After our skyline viewing of Ghent, we hopped on a tram to the train station for a 25 minute ride to Bruges.  As we did in Ghent, we grabbed some lunch and then met up with an afternoon free tour of the city.  The guide was engaging and provided a lot of historical information about this beautiful town.  A couple of great things about the walking tours are you not only get to see some of the main sites, but also some of the out-of-the-way places you wouldn’t know about. Our tour included the Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde which is a lovely secluded group of homes and abbey that has provided a safe place for women and nuns to live communally for over a thousand years!

Our tour pointed out two breweries, so we decided to be good guests and visit one.  We took a brief audio tour of the Bourgogne de Flandres brewery and had just settled into the taproom to enjoy a flight of beer when it started pouring rain outside. While I finished sampling beer, Karen quickly dashed out to buy some cheap umbrellas.  This purchase worked. The rain stopped, although we learned that the weather can change quickly in Belgium.

One thing we learned about Belgian beers is that each one is served in a unique glass. A bar or restaurant would say it is unthinkable to serve it in any other glass. If the bar does not have the correct glass available, they apologize and do not serve the beer. At 2be Bar there is now an infamous “beer wall” which displays over 1,000 Belgian beers along with the corresponding glass. It was fun to look at all the unique beer glassware on display. Although tempted to buy a few, Karen limited me to just one as a souvenir.

For dinner we then found a little restaurant to try the local specialty, moules-frites (steamed mussels and french fries). Karen enjoyed the mussels while I was given a lesson on how to debone a fish.

The comments we heard about Bruges being very tourist dependent were true. By 8:00 pm when we finished our dinner, most tourists had left, shops were closed or closing, and Bruges returned to being a very quiet little town.  We followed everyone else. We walked back to the train station for a quick ride back to Ghent with a plan to return the next day.

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Monday, July 8, 2024 – Day 10: Karen and Greg Head to Belgium

After one last, quick hot chocolate and croissant breakfast, Kelsey and Lindsey headed to the airport to return to the U.S. They travelled on the same flight back to Atlanta and then Lindsey went on to Chicago. Thankfully both of them had a relatively easy trip back and were back in their apartments by evening.

After the girls departed, Karen and I enjoyed a quiet breakfast of our own. Now that it was just the two of us we were able to sit French style at a local cafe with both of us on the same side of a small table facing the street, which is wonderful for people watching. Our plan from here was to spend a few days in Belgium before heading home. We headed to Gare du Nord, a different Paris train station, for a 90 minute trip to Brussels then a quick train change for the final 30 minute ride to Ghent, Belgium.

After checking in at our hotel, we headed out for lunch in one of the many town squares (Ghent has over 50!).  We finished in time to catch a 2-hour free walking tour to get familiar with the city and see many of the main sites in Ghent.  Our tour was very informative and included lots of history.  It turns out that in medieval times Ghent was a very large and wealthy city (second only to Paris).  Like Lyon, France, it is situated at the confluence of two rivers and built its fortune on cloth production and trade.  During the 16th century Emperor Charles V taxed Ghent to such an extent that he destroyed the city’s economy. Ghent did not regain any of its former glory for hundreds of years.  In fact, most of the medieval structures were torn down or left in ruins.  It was not until the city prepared for the 1913 World Exposition to be held in Ghent that there was a resurgence of rebuilding and repairs. In preparation for the Expo, Ghent built several 20th century reproductions of buildings that existed centuries ago along the Leie riverfront. You can find some very modern buildings and interiors hidden behind the beautiful old facades.

One stop on our walking tour was GraffitiStraat, a narrow street in Ghent dedicated to street art. Anyone can paint something on the walls along this street. There is just one rule: do not spray paint over a painting better than yours. This street continues to change and evolve. It has some amazing artwork.

Our tour ended with a quick visit to the cathedral. We were able to take a few photos before being ushered out as it closed for the evening.

After our tour we ducked into a chocolate shop recommended by our tour guide to pick up a small box of our first Belgian chocolates. Although tempted to eat them on the spot, we saved them for dessert later that night in our hotel room.


In addition to being known for its chocolate, Belgium has a long history of brewing beer.  Dating back to the 1500s, it was healthier to drink beer than water due to the lack of a sanitation system. Some of the first brewers were trappist monks. Today there are only 13 trappist monk abbeys in the world that brew beer. 6 of them are in Belgium.

With this rich history, it only made sense that our next stop would be at a local beer hall, Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant. This establishment is well known for serving beer from 5 of the 6 trappist breweries along with many other Belgian beers. Next door to this beer hall is a hole-in-the-wall bar that looks like it has been there for hundreds of years (as did the gentleman working at the bar).  Here they serve jenever – a local juniper based liquor (the ancestor of gin) – in 25 different flavors.  As the saying goes, when in Rome… so we had to try a couple! 

After hour happy hour, we had dinner at a restaurant recommended by our tour guide. On a Rick Steeves podcast we listened to he recommended trying “waterzooi,” a Ghent specialty.  Waterzooi translates to “water mess.” It is a thin soup filled with meat, potatoes and vegetables. I enjoyed one with chicken and Karen had one with fish. We really enjoyed our first afternoon in Belgium!

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Sunday, July 7, 2024 – Day 9: Sampling Champagne in Reims, France

Today was our last full day as a family in France so we decided to celebrate in style!

In the morning we walked around the corner from our hotel to explore Place Des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris.  We loved the symmetry and manicured trees of this beautiful square surrounded by red brick houses.  

We then headed to a huge outdoor street market held every Sunday morning in Les Marais.  The produce was gorgeous and the flower vendors had incredible bouquets. This market had everything including meat, seafood, cheese, clothing and souvenirs – just about anything you could want!

After exploring the market we headed to the train station to take a quick 45 minute ride to Reims.  This small town has a beautiful cathedral in the main town square. 

After a lunch in town (and bubble tea for Kelsey) we figured out the local bus system and hopped on a small bus to the Pommery Champagne House.  This amazing 50-hectacre (123 acre) estate has 60 Gallo-Roman crayères (chalk pits) that are connected by 18 kilometers (over 11 miles) of tunnels 30 meters below the surface. Madame Pommery realized in 1874 that the caves could provide a constant temperature and humidity without daylight, the perfect environment to age champagne.

We toured the champagne caves learning about the history of champagne and how it is made while also being able to view an extensive collection of contemporary art throughout the caves.  The tour ended with a champagne tasting. Between the four of us we were able to try 3 different kinds of Pommery champagne. All were delicious! Our favorite is the 2009 Pommery Grande Cru Vintage Brut Champagne. The “Vintage” means the grapes used to make the champagne all came from the same year. It is not something that happens every year.

We then walked 15 minutes down the road to the Veuve Clicquot Champagne House.  Again we were able to tour the champagne caves and learn about the process of making this world famous champagne.  At the end of our tour we had a tasting of two different rose champagnes, the “regular” rose and a vintage rose.  Both were fantastic. Lindsey enjoyed having a chance to take some photos with the iconic yellow logo. It turns out she was the only one in our family born in a Vintage year as shown on the VC Vintage Year Staircase.

Learning that fewer trains run on Sundays, we scheduled an Uber to take us back to Paris. It was about the same cost as 4 train tickets, but took twice as long with traffic.  We arrived back at our hotel and headed out for one last wonderful French dinner at a little cafe close to our hotel.

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Saturday, July 6, 2024 – Day 8: Returning to Paris

Over the last week we made several two-hour train rides south as we explored more of France. Today we began the trip back to Paris as our time in France is coming to an end.

This morning we went for an early walk in Carcassone to a local patisserie for our now standard French breakfast: coffee/tea/hot chocolate & pastries.  We quickly packed up and headed to the train station for a short train trip to Narbonne where we transferred to a high speed train for a 4 hour ride to Paris. We’re starting to get good at train travel and we now know our favorite baguette sandwiches to travel with.

We arrived in Paris and headed to our hotel in Les Marais.  After dropping off our luggage we hopped on the Metro and went to the famous Avenue de Champs-Elysees.  Kelsey made a stop at the Apple Store to replace an AirPod she left behind at a hotel.  Lindsey went in search of macarons at the famous Laduree shop.  We also made a stop at the official Paris 2024 Olympics merchandise store. Clearly this was a European merchandise store since it was the size of a cargo container. A US merch store would be much much bigger. 

Next stop, one of the best views of Paris and the Eiffel Tower: the top of the Arc de Triomphe.  The views of Paris were amazing and well worth the incredible stair workout to get up to the rooftop. It was nice to be back in Paris.

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Friday, July 5, 2024 – Day 7: Carcassonne: a Medieval City

We got up early to head back into the old city of Avignon.  We went to Les Helles – an indoor food market that opens early and has a living plant facade.  We had lots of fun strolling around looking at the various vendors – meats, cheese, seafood, baked goods, produce and more.  We chose some delicious pastries for breakfast and grabbed a few snacks for our trip.

We packed up, walked to the train station, and boarded a train for Nimes where we had a quick stop and train change on our way to Carcassonne.  Our Airbnb in Carcassonne was just a short 5 minute walk from the train station. We tested our travel philosophy to only pack what you can carry with our apartment on the third floor (which to Americans is the 4th floor) in a building with no elevator.  Karen wished she had packed a little lighter!  We were rewarded for the effort with a nice, spacious loft apartment.

With lots to see on our one day in Carcassonne, we quickly dropped off our things and headed out to the old medieval city  (a 10 minute drive/30 minute walk from the new city where we stayed).  This is a stop Kelsey was really excited about, as the Carcassonne board game is one of her  favorites.  All the guidebooks told us to expect lots of people and tourist trap type shops, but we found the old city to be charming and not crowded that afternoon.  We really enjoyed the audio tour walk through the old castle with descriptions of medieval fortress life.  Although it was a very warm day, it was cool inside the stone castle and there was a nice breeze as we walked along the castle’s ramparts.

After exploring the fortress and ancient town, we found a hidden garden bar that was a fun place to stop for a drink. Meandering a little more, we found a great restaurant for dinner. 

As we traveled through France we found that many cities host festivals in July. Kelsey noticed a festival banner in Carcassonne that announced the performance of the opera Carmen in the old city amphitheater that night.  She convinced us to experience this performance. It didn’t begin until 9:30 pm, and though it was still light at that time, the breeze really picked up causing the temperature to drop. By the end of the first act, Lindsey and Karen had enough and started the walk back to our Airbnb. Kelsey and I stayed until the end of the four acts which was after midnight. Although we were cold, we stuck it out to see an amazing performance in a unique and beautiful theater.

We really enjoyed our afternoon in this medieval city.

Carcassonne Old City at Night

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Thursday, July 4, 2024 – Day 6: Our Search for Lavender

For most Americans the 4th of July is a day for red, white and blue – but this year it was lavender day for us!

The main purpose of the car we rented yesterday was to explore Provence. After our French morning routine of stopping by a local bakery for coffee/tea/hot chocolate and pastries, we set off to see lavender and a couple of small provincial towns.

Our first stop was the Abbey of Senanque.  This beautiful old abbey was stunning – a white stone building set in the middle of lush greenery and fields of lavender.  There were lots of tourists, many with interesting driving and parking skills. Unfortunately, we could not tour the abbey since our arrival coincided with their two hour lunch break. Even without seeing the inside of the Abbey we thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful scenery and our first glimpse of lavender fields.

We then drove about 15 minutes to the little village of Gordes.  This is a beautiful little town on a hill that obviously knows its value to tourists.  We enjoyed strolling around, looking in various shops, and having lunch at an Italian restaurant (we noticed Italian food being more prevalent in southern France)

.

Back in the car on the way to our next stop we drove past a gorgeous lavender field. We quickly pulled over and parked on a side dirt road. We captured the moment for a family photo shoot with no one around besides the passing traffic.  It was exactly what we were looking for. Unbelievable!  

Our last stop on our road trip was the little village of Roussillon.  This town is known for the ochre-colored cliffs it sits on. The cliffs are beautiful and remind me of red rock found in the western U.S.  

We then headed back to Avignon. We thoroughly enjoyed our day exploring Provence. It was amazing to see so much within an hour drive of our home base of Avignon.

Due to our unexpected trip to retrieve our travel documents yesterday, Lindsey and I had not yet visited the old walled city of Avignon. After our lavender road trip we went into town to experience the frenzy of the arts festival and see the old medieval city. Karen and Kelsey showed us around and guided us from their exploring the previous day.

Kelsey wanted to see one more site in Avignon, the Pont Saint Benezet. She and I went to see the historic remains of this 12th century bridge that now only goes over a portion of the Rhone river. We squeezed in an audio tour before it closed while Karen and Lindsey enjoyed wine at a cafe while people watching.

Before heading back to the apartment after dinner we stopped to see a street magician. Lucky me, he included me into his act. It was a fun and pleasant way to end a wonderful day in Provence.

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Wednesday, July 3, 2024 – Day 5: Two Paths – Lyon to Avignon, back to Lyon

Today’s post needed to be written by Karen Hammond. You will see why in the day’s events.

The morning in Lyon was spent going in two different directions.  We decided to divide and conquer. Kelsey & Karen rented bikes and went on a brisk bike ride to see one last sight before leaving Lyon.  They rode on a great bike path along the river to the confluence –  the point where the Rhône and Shoane Rivers meet. The time available for this trip was tight with just enough time to stop, take some photos of the Museum of the Confluence, and return to the hotel to make the train to Avignon.  The museum, being a very contemporary building, anchors a part of Lyon with lots of modern architecture.  The museum is controversial since the style contrasts with the gothic architecture throughout Lyon.

While Kelsey & Karen were off on their adventure, Greg & Lindsey enjoyed a more leisurely morning with their favorite iced chai latte and a pastry from a local patisserie. What time was left, they wandered a bit through some shops and picked up madeleines for the next leg of our trip.

Both teams were successful, meeting up at the hotel before quickly whisking off to catch a train for the 90 minute ride to Avignon.  Our next stay was an AirBnB apartment just a 10 minute walk from the train station. Despite our lack of French we were able to communicate with the host who was able to show us the spacious apartment with an interesting layout (3 bedrooms, 2 showers, 1 toilet).  Travelling further South we noticed a big change in temperature and were happy for the air conditioner that almost cooled the apartment.

Immediately after arriving Greg (THANK GOODNESS!) realized we left our passports in the room safe in Lyon!  We decided the best plan would be for Greg to get our rental car early (fortunately we had booked one that was to be picked up later that evening) and drive the 2½ hours back to Lyon to retrieve the passports.  Lindsey volunteered to be his copilot, and the two of them set out to learn about driving highways in France.  Fortunately it was a relatively easy trip and they were able to retrieve the passports and get back to Avignon before midnight.  Greg definitely earned MVP status for this one (Lindsey close runner up for keeping the driver company while updating the radio station frequently).

Meanwhile Kelsey & Karen started to explore Avignon.  Our apartment was a 15 minute walk to the old walled city.  The first thing we noticed were signs for the “Festival Avignon” and LOTS of people.  It turns out we arrived on the first day of a 3 week arts festival.  Every surface in the city was covered in posters advertising performances, and at every turn someone walked up to you trying to give you a postcard about a show.  We quickly learned that saying “No, merci” let folks know we didn’t speak French. We avoided most pitches except for one performer who insisted we’d love the “no words show about three clowns who wish they were in Scotland.”

Our first stop in the old city was a tour of Palais des Papes (a huge gothic palace that was the home to the Popes in the 14th century). We then walked around the Jardin de Doms, a lovely park that overlooks the city and the Rhone River.  Later we went into the city and watched several street performers and had dinner and ice cream in one of the town squares.  We walked back to the apartment in time to make a plan for the next day and greeted Greg and Lindsey when thl returned from their “adventure.” Hammond family traveling always seems to include a little “hiccup.” We were glad to get it out of the way  toward the beginning of our trip.

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Tuesday, July 2, 2024 – Day 4: Exploring Lyon, France

Today we set out to explore more of Lyon. Our favorite way to learn about a city and see places we would never find on our own is with a free walking tour. In Lyon we connected with Maggie, a local resident who volunteers her time to show people around the city through Lyon City Greeters, a service offered by the local Chamber of Commerce. Maggie kindly shared 2.5 hours of her day walking around with us to point out many sights.

During our tour we took another Funiculaire de Lyon to the St. Just Fourvière neighborhood where Maggie showed us several small streets and alleys that included a  lookout over Lyon created by the city of Montreal, Canada. Our tour also included stops at Hotel Fourvière (a former abbey and chapel, now a 4 star hotel), the Lugdunum Roman ruins and amphitheaters that are still used for events, and La Fresque de Lyonnais (a large painted mural). During our tour we were shown part of a Camino de Santiago trail in Lyon. You can see signs for the trail by following seashell symbols and we saw groups of people on this pilgrimage.

Hotel Fourvière

After walking with Maggie we explored the neighborhood around the Lyon Opera House. We unfortunately were not able to go inside as it is closed on Mondays. The outside of the building is interesting.  The first two levels are a Roman style structure and on top there is a large modern addition with a unique semi-circle roofline.

Although a challenge for our family is navigating everyone’s food likes and dislikes, we enjoy exploring local food options. This afternoon we spent a few hours on a Lyon walking food tour. The tour made four food tasting stops and our excellent tour guide shared Lyon history along the way.

At our first stop, Le Sirop de la Rue, we sampled dried sausages paired with wine and a special syrup the owner developed from the sweet, red praline almonds from Lyon. The sweet Cul Cul la Praline Sirop can be mixed with wine, used in cocktails, or has several other uses.

The second stop was at Fromagerie Cave a Manger to sample four local types of small batch, handmade cheeses paired with wine. Karen and Lindsey enjoyed having a couple of extra samples.

The last two stops were sweets. Up first was a bakery with a sweet roll using the red pralines that Lyon is famous for and last, but not least, was ice cream. La Fabrique Givree creates unique ice cream and sorbet flavors. We tried samples of the waffle cone ice cream and fresh basil and lemon sorbet. Both were delicious!

One interesting fact we learned about the midieval city of Lyon is that it is filled with around 500 Traboules, small “secret” passages that are shortcuts to another street and/or can often lead to an interior courtyard providing access to multiple homes. Most of the passages are now private and are behind locked doors or gates, but many are still open for the public to pass through. We ducked through several on our tour.

After our food tour we stopped into the Cathedrale Saint Jean Baptiste, another beautiful cathedral in Lyon.

We ended our day with another delicious French dinner and then drinks at a rooftop bar at the Lyon Intercontinental Hotel where we tried a signature cocktail created with
Cul Cul la Praline Sirop. Apparently Taylor Swift rented the entire hotel when her tour stopped in Lyon just a couple of weeks earlier.  So sorry we missed her!

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Monday, July 1, 2024 – Day 3: Lyon, France

After enjoying pastries, tea, coffee and hot chocolate in Paris, we traveled to our next destination: Lyon, France. Lyon is the third largest city in France and is approximately 2 hours away from Paris by train.

Our hotel was in the center of the city shopping district which gave us the ability to walk most of the city. Our first afternoon in Lyon included a stop for bubble tea (which is the first thing Kelsey looks for in a new city), drinks and appetizers at the Funky Monkey, and a ride on the Funiculaire de Lyon (a mountain cable car) that took us to the  Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière at the top of a steep hill overlooking Lyon.  This was a beautiful spot to see the city and view additional places we wanted to explore.

A late dinner at a local french restaurant included a couple of birthday celebrations for fellow diners. This restaurant uses a hand-cranked music box to celebrate the occasion along with a festive dessert.

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