DAY 3 – WEDNESDAY, MAY 6, 2026
The weather forecast called for a dry but noticeably cooler day, with temperatures only reaching the low-to-mid 50s, so we decided it was the perfect excuse for a museum day. London apparently agreed, along with several thousand other tourists.
After breakfast at a local café, we hopped on the Tube and headed to the Churchill War Rooms Museum. Our walk from the station took us through St. James’s Park, another beautiful green space tucked right into the middle of London.
Prior to the start of World War II, the British government became increasingly concerned about the safety and continuity of leadership if another war broke out. While evacuation plans existed, government leaders believed abandoning London would devastate public morale. Instead, Prime Minister Winston Churchill oversaw the creation of a secure underground command center beneath Whitehall, a central government office building.
Beginning in 1938, the basement ceilings and walls were reinforced with concrete up to 10 feet thick as offices, strategy rooms, communication centers, and living quarters were constructed. By August 1939, the Cabinet War Rooms were operational and ready for use just weeks before Britain entered World War II.
From 1940 to 1945, as many as 300 people lived and worked in this maze of underground rooms, helping direct Britain’s wartime strategy. When the war ended in 1945, many of the rooms were simply locked and left almost exactly as they were.
In 1984, the site reopened as a museum, preserving this remarkable piece of history. The museum also includes a fascinating exhibit on the life of Winston Churchill. We spent about two hours there. It was one of the more immersive museums we’ve visited. It also made us very thankful for modern office perks like windows, fresh air, and not having to coordinate a world war before lunch.
From there, we walked through Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden, bustling areas packed with tourists, street performers, and activity everywhere you looked. Think Times Square, but with significantly fewer LED billboards and considerably more history. We stopped for a quick fish-and-chips lunch before continuing on to our next destination.
Next up was the British Museum, commonly listed as a “must do” in London. The museum is free to enter and absolutely enormous. It was also extremely crowded, proving once again that free admission is one of the most universally loved phrases in any language. The museum’s stunning covered central atrium spans nearly two acres (72,000 square feet), making it the largest covered public square in Europe. Standing inside it really gives you a sense of the scale of the museum before you even begin exploring the exhibits.
Once again, we turned to Rick Steves to guide us through the highlights of the Egyptian, Assyrian, and Greek exhibits. One thought that crossed our minds repeatedly during the visit was that this museum contains an awful lot of items Britain “acquired” during its colonial years. Nonetheless, it was incredible to see these artifacts in person. The Rosetta Stone in particular was fascinating to finally see up close.
After two fairly intense museums and several hours of standing, we were ready to stretch our legs. We found a blog featuring a self-guided walking tour through the Soho neighborhood, conveniently close to where we were. We spent the next couple of hours wandering through narrow streets and hidden alleyways lined with shops, cafés, pubs, and charming little courtyards. Soho felt lively and historic at the same time, with something interesting around almost every corner.
A particular highlight for Karen was discovering a Miffy shop. Miffy at the Zoo was one of her favorite childhood picture books, and she was delighted to learn that Miffy is apparently still thriving decades later. Greg, meanwhile, was equally delighted to discover a local pub serving a proper afternoon pint while Karen sampled one of the many ciders on tap. We were definitely not alone in this idea.
With the nice weather, the sidewalks outside the pubs were overflowing with people meeting friends and coworkers after work. Every pub we passed was spilling out onto the sidewalks, some stretching nearly the entire length of the block. One thing we’ve really noticed here is a very different work-life balance. Around 5:00 PM, offices empty out and people genuinely seem to transition into enjoying the evening. There’s a strong social culture centered around gathering with friends, relaxing outdoors, and actually stopping work at the end of the day. Imagine that.
Before hopping back on the Tube to return to our hotel, we found a quiet restaurant for dinner. A nightcap at the hotel bar was the perfect way to end the evening while planning tomorrow’s adventures.
Hammond Adventures 