On Friday, May 8, I planned another full day of sightseeing, and was excited to head towards the western part of the island to visit a couple locations that had been highly recommended. My first stop was Starbucks, since I am always curious what different types of pastries and drinks they have in other countries. I settled on a chocolate filled donut and cool lime refresher (my dad can attest this is the best flavor and has sadly been discontinued in the US). I took my treats and headed to the bus stop to get on the road to my first stop of the day, Mosta Rotunda.
Mosta Rotunda is a unique domed church in the city of Mosta and is the third largest unsupported dome in the world! It was built in the mid-19th century and replaced an older church once the population outgrew it. The architect decided to do something a bit different and create a circular layout with a huge dome, based on the Pantheon. I went inside and got an audio guide and was excited that the first stop was up in the gallery to view the dome. They are currently doing some restoration work, so there was a lift with people working inside the church, which I found very fascinating to watch. I couldn’t help but think how they must really not have a fear of heights to do that job.
Once I went back down to the ground level I continued the audio tour and learned about lots of different pieces of art and architecture around the church. The other interesting thing about the Mosta Rotunda is that during WWII a bomb actually fell through the roof during a service, but did not explode. It left a hole in the dome but because of the nature of its shape, it otherwise stayed completely in tact. The inhabitants now see this as a miracle and the bomb was displayed in one of the other rooms. The marble floor has also been left with damage from the bomb as a reminder of that moment. Once back outside I was able to go next door to the visitor center and watch a short video about the construction of the dome, which I thought was very interesting.
I went back to the bus stop to wait for the next bus and found out that what I had read online was true- there may be a schedule that is posted, but there is no guarantee that any bus will show up at the time you expect. I later found out that if you scan the QR code on the bus stop signs it will give you live updates for that stop and that was much more helpful. After waiting a little while, the bus finally arrived and I was on the way to Mdina, the medieval Silent City. On my way out of Mosta, however, I saw a sign on the side of the road that caught my eye. It had Millbrae, CA listed as a sister city and I thought what a small world, since I know people who live there!
Once I arrived in Mdina I actually saw my tour guide I had earlier in the week in Valletta finishing a tour- I guess Malta is a small enough place there are only so many tour guides! Since I was a bit hungry and I had some time before my walking tour, I decided to stop by a small restaurant called Is-Serkin, which I had read has the best pastizzi in all of Malta. It is located just outside the Mdina city gates and while I may not be a pastizzi expert, I definitely could tell the difference between this one and the last one I tried in Valletta. This one came straight from the oven, so the cheese was perfectly melted and the outside was super flaky and crunchy.
After finishing my snack, I decided to walk into Mdina and explore a little on my own. The walled city was truly magical to walk around, with all these small alleyways with the limestone buildings on each side. I expected it to be busier, but I guess it was a quiet day and I could see why it gets called the Silent City, especially as it got later in the afternoon.
I took some photos of the famous blue door, and then went to Palazzo Falson, a 13th century palazzo turned museum, which was really cool to see. It was owned by Maltese nobility and showcased lots of artwork and collections from over the centuries. I really enjoyed the audio tour here as well and it felt like I had the whole place to myself!
After the museum I had just enough time to stop by the Fontanella Tea Gardens, which I had read is known for their cakes and beautiful views. Mdina is built on the top of the hill, so when you look out over the walls you can see all the way to the Mediterranean. I got lucky and was seated right at the edge of the terrace, and was treated with a great view while I waited for my iced tea and chocolate cake (there were lots of cake options to choose from but they are famous for the chocolate so I thought I had to give it a try). The cake was delicious, and the ambiance made it even better, so this was the perfect stop to refuel before my free walking tour.
I then made my way back toward the Mdina city gates to meet my walking tour guide. As per usual, the tour was great and Ben, the guide, gave so much interesting history along with some interesting facts about Maltese culture. I found it particularly entertaining that he could point out cars that he believed belonged to nobility as we walked around. Mdina is still really just home to nobility and nuns, so the cars he said all belonged to people who either worked or lived there. When we would see an expensive car he could point out the license plate and say those letters stand for the last name of a noble family, etc. Apparently the Maltese really like their vanity license plates!
After the tour finished up, I had just enough time to go back to look in some of the stores. Mdina is known for their glass and so there were several stores selling all sorts of glass objects, and I was able to pick out a vase to take home as a unique souvenir. I went to a Mdina restaurant for a quick dinner, and then decided I would try and make it to Dingli Cliffs for the sunset. This was highly recommended as some of the best views in Malta, but it had been another hazy day, so I wasn’t sure how the sunset would be. It was only a 15 minute bus ride away though, so I thought I would check it out.
From where the bus dropped me off I walked probably about a half mile down the coast to an area where you can get an excellent view of the cliffs. It was a beautiful walk and a great view at the end, even though the sunset was not terribly impressive. There were several other people doing the same thing, but I imagine on a clearer night the area is much more crowded.
After the sun set, it was starting to get dark so I decided to just call a Bolt (the Maltese version of Uber) and that took me back to my apartment in Sliema, on the exact other side of thr island. This trip, however, still only took half an hour which really solidified how small the country is. After a long day I had a relaxing evening enjoying the rooftop hot tub and reflecting on all the amazing places I had seen.
Hammond Adventures 