We woke up this morning to a surprise as our ship pulled into our final port, Reykjavík, the world’s northernmost capital city. Overnight, we had unknowingly crossed into the Arctic Circle, and the cruise staff marked the milestone with certificates for every passenger. A special memento for an unforgettable voyage!
Unlike the small fishing villages and remote towns we’d visited earlier, Reykjavík is a true city. Roughly 250,000 people live in the capital area – more than half of Iceland’s entire population of 392,000.
Since the ship would remain in port overnight, we hired a driver to take us out of the city and into the rugged countryside. Driving through a foggy, volcanic landscape felt like traveling across another planet. It’s no wonder NASA used these Icelandic black lava fields and moss-covered rocks to test its Mars rover technology.
Aegissidufoss – A Waterfall with a Twist
Our first stop was Ægissíðufoss, a picturesque waterfall on the Ytri-Rangá River. While the falls themselves are beautiful, what makes this spot unique is the salmon ladder beside it. This concrete “fish highway” allows salmon to bypass the falls on their upstream journey. Our guide explained that fly fishing on this river is carefully managed – permits are required, and anglers rotate through specific areas of the river to ensure sustainability. Watching the power of the river and imagining the salmon leaping upstream was fascinating.
Hiking Sólheimajökull Glacier
From there, we drove southeast to the day’s highlight: a three-hour hike on Sólheimajökull, an outlet glacier of Mýrdalsjökull – the fourth-largest glacier in Iceland. Outfitted with harnesses, helmets, crampons, and ice axes, we followed our guide onto the frozen expanse.
At first glance, the glacier looked like a black-and-white photograph. Volcanic ash from past eruptions streaked the ice with dark layers, but whenever a crevice opened, it revealed stunning shades of blue – pure, compressed ice thousands of years old. In the summer, the glacier is more forgiving, with softer ice for our crampons to grip. We even tasted some freshly melted glacier water, crystal-clear and refreshingly cold.
As if the adventure wasn’t memorable enough, we witnessed nature’s raw power when a massive chunk of ice calved off the glacier right as our hike was ending. A dramatic finale to an already awe-inspiring trek.
A Volcanic-Themed Feast
After hours on the ice, hunger hit hard. We stopped at Black Crust Pizzaria, a quirky and popular restaurant where the pizza dough is dyed black with activated charcoal. It felt fitting to eat something that looked like it was made from volcanic ash after spending the afternoon walking across a glacier shaped by Iceland’s fiery geology.
Skógafoss – The Crown Jewel
On our way back toward Reykjavík, there was time for one more stop: Skógafoss, often hailed as one of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls. Dropping 203 feet in a roaring curtain of water, Skógafoss is fed by runoff from two glaciers. Standing at the base, feeling the mist on our faces, we could see why it’s one of Iceland’s most photographed natural wonders. On sunny days, rainbows often form in the spray – but even without one, the sheer size and sound were awe inspiring.
A Birthday Surprise at Sea
Back at the ship, we had one final surprise in store. Lindsey had no idea we’d arranged to celebrate her birthday a day early. The ship’s staff outdid themselves, helping us mark her special day with cake, decorations, and warm wishes. It was the perfect ending to an extraordinary day—waterfalls, glaciers, volcanic pizza, and a birthday celebration at sea.
Hammond Adventures 