Posts Tagged With: Cotswolds walking tour

Day 8 in England – Walking Through Sheep Fields and Castles in the Cotswolds

DAY 8 – MONDAY, MAY 11, 2026

We were up bright and early and had our bags out by 8:15 AM. After another big breakfast at our hotel (one of the many things we are appreciating about these inns is that breakfast is always included), we packed up and got ready for the day ahead.

The tour company provided a van transfer from Lower Slaughter to Guiting Power, a tiny village about 15 minutes away. We are assuming this section was either not especially scenic, not walker-friendly, or would have turned the day into a marathon rather than a pleasant hike.

During our walks so far, we really have not encountered anyone else clearly doing the same tour as us. There was one other couple in the van this morning who we suspect are following the same route, but for reasons unknown they did not seem especially interested in making new American friends before 10:00 AM.

The driver dropped us off in a small village square with the very detailed instruction: “Go that way.”

Guiting Power itself was tiny but charming. We poked our heads into a small farm shop and a cozy coffee shop that appeared to be the village’s entire commercial district. One interesting feature at the coffee shop was a raised side door for customers arriving on horseback. Sure enough, while we were there, two riders actually showed up and ordered drinks. Apparently “grabbing coffee on the way” means something a little different in the Cotswolds.

Coffee Shop in Guiting Power

After our quick survey of the village square, we headed off on today’s 6.1-mile walk along the Wardens’ Way.

Not long into the walk we found ourselves crossing through a sheep farm filled with adorable lambs. The mothers each had large numbers spray-painted on their sides, and the lambs had matching numbers so they could easily stay paired together. It was surprisingly entertaining to watch the little lambs follow their mothers everywhere while a shepherd cruised around the fields on an ATV keeping an eye on the flock.

One of the things that continues to amaze us is how many public walking paths run directly through active farmland and livestock fields. We regularly find ourselves just a few feet away from sheep, cows, horses, and other animals. Signs frequently remind walkers that these are working farms and the animals are not pets, which is probably wise advice considering how tempting it is to stop and interact with every animal we see. The bigger challenge, however, is balancing the urge to admire the scenery and livestock while also paying close attention to where you are stepping.

We passed bright yellow rapeseed fields, several barley fields, and eventually entered a wooded area just as rain began to fall. For the first time on the trip we had to break out our raincoats and backpack covers. Thankfully the rain stayed fairly light and only lasted about an hour, so it really did not slow us down much.

The walk then continued through two large estates, much of it beneath a canopy of deciduous forest. At times it honestly felt very similar to hiking back home in New England. We finally remembered to count the gates we passed through during the day. Since today involved fewer open farm fields, our official gate count for the day was only 11.

Toward the end of our walk we arrived at Sudeley Castle. We stopped first for a quick lunch at the café before deciding to tour the castle itself.

Originally established as a manor in the 11th century, the castle evolved over hundreds of years into an important Tudor estate. It hosted several English monarchs over the centuries and was heavily damaged during the English Civil War before sitting abandoned for roughly 200 years. In the 1800s it was purchased and gradually restored by a wealthy family, descendants of whom still own and occasionally live at the estate today. Opening the property to visitors, we learned, helps offset the rather significant expense of maintaining a castle. Apparently castle ownership comes with slightly higher upkeep costs than your average suburban home.

We especially enjoyed learning about the castle’s royal history and exploring the ruins of the massive Tithe Barn, where a portion of crops and estate income would historically have been stored for the church. On the grounds is St. Mary’s Chapel, the burial place of Katherine Parr, the sixth and final wife of Henry VIII. After Henry VIII’s death, Katherine lived at Sudeley Castle with her new husband. Her tomb there is believed to be the only resting place of an English queen located on private property.

After spending about 90 minutes exploring the castle and grounds, we walked the final half mile into the village of Winchcombe, our home for the night. We stopped at a pub for an afternoon cream tea before heading to our inn to check in. Winchcombe is small enough that our short walk between the pub and hotel essentially covered the entire downtown area.

The Lion Inn in Winchcombe

Once settled in, we stretched, showered, and headed downstairs for dinner at the inn restaurant. Over dinner we debated tomorrow’s choices: an “easy” 9-mile walk or a “moderate” 12-mile walk.

By now you can probably guess which option we were leaning toward. Stay tuned.

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Day 7 in England – Gates, Sheep, and Cream Tea: A Day on the Warden’s Way in the Cotswolds

Walking across a rapeseed field

DAY 7 – SUNDAY, MAY 10, 2026

For this part of the trip we were staying at the same hotel for a second night, which felt like a luxury. Since we did not need to have our bags packed and ready for transport, we took advantage of the opportunity to sleep in a little later. After another big breakfast at the hotel, we reviewed the options for the day in our trip app: spend the day exploring a new village about 30 minutes away or tackle a 10-mile circular walk. You can probably guess which option we chose.

Our route out of Lower Slaughter first brought us to Upper Slaughter, a village only about a 15-minute walk away. It was every bit as charming as Lower Slaughter, though even smaller. Essentially one beautiful inn with a Michelin-rated restaurant, a handful of stone cottages.

One interesting thing we noticed while leaving Lower Slaughter was how many of the iconic red British telephone booths had been repurposed. Rather than removing them, several villages have converted them into emergency defibrillator stations. With a quick call to 999, you can receive a code to unlock the machine. It was a clever and practical way to preserve a bit of British history.

New defibrillator booth

For most of the day we followed the Warden’s Way trail. Along the route we again encountered plenty of sheep, cows, and horses, along with a swan, a pheasant, and lots of doves (which sounds better than pigeons). We also passed through what felt like an endless number of gates, each apparently designed by a different engineer with a completely different philosophy on latches and steps.

The scenery changed constantly throughout the day. We crossed farms and open fields bordered by hedges, rows of bridal wreath, and fences ranging from neat wooden rails to ancient stone walls and basic wire barriers. At one point we walked through a wooded area that felt surprisingly similar to hiking in New England back home. Some of the highlights included a narrow path lined with Queen Anne’s Lace and a massive field of bright yellow rapeseed flowers stretching across the landscape. We were proud that we recognized the crop thanks to watching Clarkson’s Farm.

A little less than five miles into the walk, we reached the village of Naunton and stopped at the Black Horse Inn for lunch. It was exactly what you hope to find on a long countryside walk: a cozy pub serving sandwiches and chips (fries), with tired hikers gratefully resting their feet.

The Black Horse Inn

Just outside Naunton we came across a restored medieval dovecote. The structure was built centuries ago to house doves, which were once used as a supplemental food source. The dovecote is open to visitors, so we stepped inside and immediately noticed a couple of doves staring at us suspiciously, as though we were interrupting an important meeting. The design was fascinating. Openings at the top allowed the birds to enter while helping keep predators, such as hawks, out.

Several miles later, nearing the end of the route, we arrived in Bourton-on-the-Water, often called the “Venice of the Cotswolds.” Personally, we thought this title might be one of the greatest marketing achievements in tourism history. The Windrush River, while pretty, is really more of a shallow stream winding through the center of town, crossed by five small stone bridges. Not exactly Venice, but definitely picturesque. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, however, it was absolutely packed with tourists and tour buses.

As we entered town, we stopped at Bakery on the Water for afternoon tea, which is rapidly becoming part of our daily routine. Karen enjoyed a traditional cream tea with a scone, clotted cream, and jam, while Greg opted for a Bakewell slice, an almond cake with raspberry filling, along with an iced tea.

Nearby is the famous Model Village. In 1936, the owner of the Old New Inn commissioned the construction of a detailed scale model of Bourton-on-the-Water at one-ninth the size of the actual town. Completed in 1940, it remains one of the area’s most popular attractions. Despite the crowds, we enjoyed wandering through it. One of the funniest moments was watching a cat stroll through the tiny streets looking like a giant movie monster towering over the buildings. The creators also included an even smaller version of the model village within the model itself, which gave the whole thing a fun sense of humor. While Bourton-on-the-Water felt a little touristy for our taste, the Model Village was an interesting stop.

By this point we were ready for the final mile back to our hotel. Conveniently, our route passed directly by Hawkstone Arms and Brewery, Jeremy Clarkson’s pub and brewery. Since we had enjoyed it the night before, we decided an 11-mile walk had earned us another visit. Greg ordered a beer flight to sample more of the Hawkstone offerings, while Karen happily tried the berry cider. It is safe to say she has become a fan of Hawkstone ciders.

With only a short 15-minute walk remaining, we made it back to the hotel with just enough time to shower before our dinner reservation at The Slaughters Country Inn. After a great meal, we returned to our room for some stretching, a hot bath, and an early collapse into bed. Another long walking day awaits tomorrow.

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Day 6 in England – From Moreton-in-Marsh to Lower Slaughter: A Cotswolds Adventure

DAY 6 – SATURDAY, MAY 9, 2026

Today was the first official day of our walking adventure through the Cotswolds. We were up early to get organized, eat breakfast, and have our luggage packed and ready for pickup by 8:30 AM. Since we’re combining time in London with a multi-day walking trip, fitting everything into one suitcase each was a challenge. Anything that didn’t fit would have to be carried on our backs for the day, so we packed very carefully.

After another hearty breakfast at the hotel, we grabbed our backpacks and headed out. The tour we booked is “self-guided,” meaning there’s no group and no tour guide. Instead, the tour company provides a smartphone app with the daily itinerary, route descriptions, historical highlights, and an interactive GPS map that shows exactly where you are on the trail. Thankfully, it also alerts you if you wander off course (yes, we did test this feature on our first day).

We started our walk from Moreton-in-Marsh and spent the day crossing fields, farmland, wooded trails, and quiet country lanes. Along the way we passed countless sheep, a few cows and horses, two deer, and more birds than we could possibly identify. What we really should have counted, though, was the number of gates we opened and closed throughout the day. There were a lot.

Most of today’s route followed part of The Monarch’s Way, a 625-mile footpath that traces the escape route of King Charles II after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Fortunately for us, we could take our time to take in the scenic countryside.

One of the things that surprised us most was the variety of landscapes we traveled through.

England has long-standing public footpath laws that allow walking routes to cross private land, so throughout the day we found ourselves hiking through open meadows, narrow hedge-lined paths, farmland, churchyards, wooded areas, driveways, and even directly through active cow pastures. There were a couple of moments where the cows seemed just as curious about us as we were cautious of them.

We passed through two tiny villages that seemed to consist of a handful of stone cottages and a church before eventually arriving at Stow-on-the-Wold about three hours into the walk. This was by far the busiest place we had seen all day. The town center was packed with visitors enjoying the gorgeous sunny Saturday weather, and the streets were lined with small shops, pubs, tea rooms, and restaurants.

We picked up sandwiches from a small shop and enjoyed lunch outside on a bench while doing some excellent people watching and appreciating the chance to rest our legs for a bit. After lunch we wandered through a few shops and stopped by The Porch House, which claims to be the oldest inn in England, dating back to the 10th century. It only seemed appropriate to honor that history with a beer for Greg and a cider for Karen.

After our break it was time to get moving again. We continued following The Monarch’s Way for the next couple of hours as we made our way toward Lower Slaughter, where we’ll be staying for the next two nights.

As we entered Lower Slaughter we passed the village’s famous old mill along the River Eye, one of the most photographed spots in the Cotswolds and easy to see why. We also wandered through a small arts and crafts show taking place at the village hall before finally arriving at our hotel, relieved to see that our luggage had successfully beaten us there.

The Old Mill in Lower Slaughter

After checking in, we explored the hotel grounds, which included a food truck that seemed like the perfect place for a snack after a long day of walking. Unfortunately, we quickly learned that everyone else had the exact same idea. The food truck had already sold out and closed early. Apparently a warm, sunny Saturday in England is treated as a major public event.

A quick Google search revealed that we were only about a 15-minute walk from the Hawkstone Arms, a large covered tent pub next to the Hawkstone Brewery. Both are owned by Jeremy Clarkson, whose farm shop we had visited earlier in the week. It seemed wrong not to go, so we headed over for another well-earned beer for Greg and a delicious rhubarb cider for Karen.

We made it back to the hotel with just enough time to shower and change before dinner across the street. Lower Slaughter is beautiful, but tiny. There are essentially two inns with restaurants, and that’s your dining scene. We enjoyed a very nice, somewhat fancy dinner at The Slaughters Manor House before returning to our hotel for a glass of wine and a smartphone card game (Play Nine) to end the evening.

Before bed, we wisely took time to stretch out sore muscles, while Karen opted for the even wiser strategy of a hot bath. After nearly 12 miles of walking, sleep came pretty easily.

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