Posts Tagged With: London travel blog

Final Day in England – Tea, Toys & Treasured London Traditions

Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason

DAY 18 – THURSDAY, MAY 21, 2026

This was the final full day of our trip, and Karen decided we should end our London adventure in style. A shopping day!

After packing up and checking out of our hotel, we left our luggage with the concierge and set out for our first stop just a couple of blocks away: the famous Selfridges department store. Breakfast was also part of the plan, so we headed straight for the Foodhall entrance. As we approached, we were surprised to see a very long roped-off line stretching down the sidewalk. We could not imagine that this many people were waiting for breakfast.

Once inside, we discovered the line had nothing to do with food. Designer Anya Hindmarch had collaborated with Selfridges on a new release of their trademark yellow reusable shopping bags, and they had just gone on sale at 10:00 AM. Apparently this was a major event. London shoppers do not mess around when it comes to limited-edition bags!

After navigating around the special checkout area devoted entirely to bag sales, we explored the Foodhall, which felt part gourmet grocery store and part luxury grab-and-go market. Since the café there was not yet open, we were directed upstairs to the beautifully named Brasserie of Light.

The restaurant absolutely lived up to its name. Sunlight poured through enormous windows, mirrors reflected light throughout the room, and the centerpiece was an enormous sparkling silver Pegasus sculpture mounted dramatically on the wall. It was quite a sight first thing in the morning.

We enjoyed a delicious and reasonably priced breakfast while soaking in the bright, glamorous atmosphere. Clearly the department store has mastered the art of encouraging shoppers to linger a little longer.

After breakfast we wandered through the rest of Selfridges. It was mostly window shopping for us, though we did circle back and pick up a few of the famous yellow reusable bags once the crowds had disappeared.

About a ten-minute walk away was another iconic London shopping destination, Liberty London. The store itself may actually be more beautiful than the merchandise inside. Housed in a Tudor Revival building with dark wood beams, creaking wooden floors, and grand staircases, it feels more like walking through an old manor house than a department store.

The center of the building features large atrium-like spaces topped with glass ceilings that flood the interior with natural light. While Liberty carries many brands, the store is still famous for its signature Liberty of London floral prints and fabrics. The top floor showcases rows and rows of fabric bolts in every imaginable pattern and color. It was genuinely fun browsing through them all, though it is possible Karen enjoyed this portion of the day just a little more than Greg did.

From Liberty we walked around the corner to Hamleys, the legendary toy store on Regent Street. Even though we were not shopping for toys, it was impossible not to enjoy exploring the six floors packed with games, gadgets, and demonstrations. Around every corner an enthusiastic employee was launching flying toys, performing magic tricks, or racing miniature cars. We can only imagine how chaotic and exciting the store must feel during the holidays.

Just a few minutes later we arrived at the destination that had inspired this entire shopping-themed day: afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason.

We had reservations for afternoon tea in the elegant Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon. The room was beautifully decorated, a pianist played softly on a grand piano, and many guests were dressed up for the occasion. It made for excellent people watching. We ordered the traditional afternoon tea, with Karen beginning with a glass of champagne while Greg chose a sparkling peach iced tea.

The tea service itself was an experience. We each selected our own tea from a menu featuring more than 50 varieties. Soon a beautiful three-tiered silver tray arrived at the table. The bottom tier held finger sandwiches including smoked salmon, cucumber, egg salad, ham, and Coronation chicken salad, a curried chicken salad created for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. The middle tier featured warm scones served with strawberry jam and thick clotted cream. The top tier was filled with delicate two-bite desserts that looked almost too pretty to eat.

Almost.

One of the lovely traditions of afternoon tea is that you are encouraged to request more of anything you would like. Over the course of nearly two hours we enjoyed multiple pots of tea, but after all the sandwiches, scones, and desserts we simply did not have room for additional food. We eventually packed some desserts up to take with us. It was one of those wonderfully indulgent experiences that simply feels quintessentially London.

Afterward we explored the rest of Fortnum & Mason. By now we had noticed that each iconic London department store seems to have its own signature color. Selfridges is bright yellow, Liberty is deep purple, and Fortnum & Mason is unmistakably teal. The store’s stunning teal spiral staircase sits at the center of the building and ties everything together beautifully.

The ground floor is filled with teas, biscuits, preserves, and beautifully packaged treats, while upper floors feature china, linens, cookware, and specialty gifts. There were even departments dedicated to picnic baskets and all the accessories needed to stock them properly. The entire store feels less like shopping and more like stepping into a carefully designed experience.

By the time we left Fortnum & Mason we were definitely ready to walk off some of our afternoon tea, so we made the thirty-minute walk back toward the original Twinings tea shop. We had visited the store on our second day in London but avoided buying much since we still had our entire Cotswolds hiking adventure ahead of us. Now, with the hiking portion of the trip behind us, we could browse much more freely. We sampled teas, picked up a few favorites, and enjoyed one last proper London tea-shopping experience.

By late afternoon we were officially shopped out. We slowly made our way back toward the hotel, stopping along the way for one final British gin and tonic while enjoying the unexpectedly warm weather. We could hardly believe London had reached the mid-70s.

After collecting our luggage, we grabbed an Uber to what we thought was our airport hotel for the night before our morning flight.

And then came our final unexpected British adventure.

Our Uber dropped us off at the Heathrow Hilton Garden Inn. Unfortunately, when we checked in, the front desk could not find our reservation. After several confused minutes, we discovered there are apparently three Hilton properties at Heathrow, including two different Hilton Garden Inns.

Really?!?

So we called another Uber and took a fifteen-minute, two-mile ride to the correct hotel. Thankfully we had built in plenty of extra time, and the second hotel turned out to be connected to Terminal 2 by a pedestrian bridge, meaning no additional transportation would be needed in the morning.

After finally checking in, we grabbed a light dinner and spent the evening playing suitcase Jenga as we attempted to fit hiking boots, souvenirs, tea tins, and shopping purchases into our luggage.

The next morning we were up bright and early for the walk to the airport and our flight home to Boston.

Farewell to a wonderful British vacation!

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Day 17 in England –  Chelsea in Bloom and Hidden Corners of London

DAY 17 – WEDNESDAY, MAY 20, 2026

We decided today was the perfect day to take a break from museums and palaces. With temperatures expected to reach the upper 60s, it seemed like ideal weather to explore a few new-to-us London neighborhoods. So after a hearty breakfast, we set out on foot for another day of adventure.

As it turns out, we were in London during the same week as the famous Chelsea Flower Show, purely by coincidence. This massive annual event draws visitors from around the world. While we did not have tickets to the flower show itself, we had read that nearby neighborhoods celebrate with elaborate floral displays throughout the streets and storefronts.

We began our “tour” with about a 30-minute walk to the Belgravia neighborhood. Once there, we followed a self-guided walking route through charming residential streets lined with elegant white townhouses and tucked-away garden squares. Along the way we passed several storefronts decorated with lovely floral displays. We ooohhhed and ahhhhed, not realizing that this was only the warm-up act for what was ahead.

During our walk through Belgravia we came across another one of London’s historical markers, this one noting the house where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived while visiting London as a child. Remarkably, Mozart was only eight years old when he composed his Symphony No. 1 there in 1764. It is hard to imagine creating a symphony at that age when most eight-year-olds are still working on elementary school homework! Moments like this are one of the things we have loved most about London. Around almost every corner there seems to be another fascinating piece of history hiding in plain sight.

We stopped for lunch at a local restaurant and were lucky to grab the last two seats at the bar. As we looked around, we noticed the restaurant was absolutely packed, and most of the customers were women dressed in colorful floral dresses and hats, clearly showing that this flower show must be a really big deal!

After lunch we walked about 10 minutes to the Chelsea neighborhood, where we had read about a free public event called “Chelsea in Bloom.” Apparently, we were not the only people who had heard about it. The streets were absolutely thronged with people.

Greg, who enjoys carefully setting up the perfect photo, was slightly frustrated by the constant stream of people walking directly in front of him at all times. That minor challenge aside, we were completely wowed by what we saw. There were five large floral installations spread throughout the neighborhood, each more creative than the last. In addition, many of the shops and restaurants had elaborate floral displays decorating their storefronts.

This year’s theme was “Out of This World,” so we saw enormous floral suns, moons, planets, astronauts, galaxies, and even a few aliens. It was genuinely stunning, and we felt incredibly lucky that our timing happened to line up perfectly with the event.



After several hours weaving through crowds and admiring flowers, we were ready for a quieter activity and realized it was tea time. We were determined to enjoy one more cream tea before leaving the UK. During our time in the Cotswolds, nearly every village seemed to have multiple tea rooms, and even the pubs happily served tea and scones. London, however, proved a bit different. There were countless places offering elaborate and expensive traditional afternoon teas, but finding a simple cream tea with just scones and tea took more effort than expected.

Thankfully, persistence paid off. After another 20-minute walk, we found a small tea room where we could finally sit down and rest our feet for a bit. The scones were not the best we had during the trip, but at that point we were simply grateful for tea, chairs, and a moment of peace.

With renewed energy, we decided to explore one final area before dinner. This time we hopped on the Tube and headed to Little Venice. Hidden within the middle of London is a peaceful canal area lined with colorful narrowboats and houseboats. Some boats offer canal tours or act as water taxis, while others have been converted into floating cafes, coffee shops, or even hotel accommodations. We passed one boat available to rent overnight and another operating as a puppet theater barge.

Just as we wandered farther along the canal, it began to rain. London doing London things. We quickly ducked into a Tube station to regroup and plan our next steps.

Another nice bonus of our trip coinciding with the Chelsea Flower Show was the opportunity to briefly catch up with two close friends who used to live in West Hartford and now live in North Carolina. They were in London for the flower show, so we met up with them for a drink at their hotel bar. It felt funny that we all had to fly to London in order to see each other!

Afterward, we took the Tube back toward our hotel and stopped at a cozy neighborhood pub just a block away for a late dinner. It was the perfect ending to another wonderful day in London.

Another great London day in the books. Only one more day before our England adventure comes to an end!

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Day 16 in England – From the Tower of London to the Sky Garden

Photo at the Tower of England

DAY 16 – TUESDAY, MAY 19, 2026

This morning we were up and out again with only enough time for a quick pastry breakfast before heading to the Tube. We arrived at the Tower of London just in time for our 10:00-10:30 AM ticketed entry window.

Once inside the Tower grounds, we started our visit with a free 45-minute tour led by a Yeoman Warder, better known by the nickname “Beefeater.” The Yeoman Warders were established by King Henry VII in 1485 as royal bodyguards and guardians of prisoners. According to our guide, the nickname “Beefeater” came from the fact that while much of the population survived on modest meals of chicken or pigeon, these guards were provided with generous beef rations to keep up their strength.

Since records began in 1826, there have only been 425 Beefeaters. To qualify, applicants must be honorably retired after at least 22 years of military service and have an unblemished record. Once appointed, they and their families live within the Tower grounds. Today there are about 35 active Beefeaters (men and women) whose duties include leading tours, answering questions, and participating in the Ceremony of the Keys, the nightly locking of the Tower that has taken place for more than 700 years.

Fun fact: Beefeater Gin got its name after the company wanted to use an iconic British symbol for branding. According to our guide, the military and police declined, but the Beefeaters agreed on one condition: every Beefeater receives a complimentary bottle of gin on their birthday each year!

We thoroughly enjoyed the tour, although it turned out to be less of a walking tour and more of a storytelling session about the Tower’s history. Our Beefeater guide was fantastic. He spoke loudly enough for the huge crowd to hear, and he was animated, personable, and genuinely funny. His commentary blended humor with plenty of fascinating history.

After the tour, we spent a little time visiting the famous ravens that live on the Tower grounds. Legend says that if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the monarchy will fall. To prevent that possibility, eight ravens are kept there at all times. They are extremely well cared for, although their wings are clipped so they cannot fly far away.

Next, we toured the White Tower, the iconic central building of the complex. Inside we saw displays of armor and weaponry, along with several chilling artifacts, including an execution block and axe. On an upper floor we visited St. John’s Chapel, one of the oldest surviving church interiors in London.

We then joined the line to see the Crown Jewels. Unfortunately photography is not allowed, so you will have to trust us on this one. That is some serious bling! Kings and queens definitely earned a workout carrying the enormous crowns, scepters, orbs, and elaborate ceremonial robes.

We also explored the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, where three British queens are buried, the Beauchamp Tower with its haunting prisoner carvings etched into the stone walls, and the Bloody Tower, infamous as the final home of the two young princes whose remains were discovered centuries later. Spoiler alert: history strongly suggests their uncle had them killed so he could take the throne himself.

Before leaving, we walked along part of the medieval wall, which offered excellent views of the much newer Tower Bridge, completed in 1894. Altogether, it was a fascinating morning packed with centuries of sometimes gruesome history.

By the time we left, it was nearly 2:00 PM and we were very hungry. We crossed London Bridge to the Bankside area and made our way to Borough Market, a massive food market filled with cheesemongers, fish stalls, butchers, bakeries, and food vendors from around the world. Greg went with paella while Karen chose wild mushroom risotto. Both were excellent.

After lunch we were fortified enough to tackle another Rick Steves walking tour. Along the way we passed Southwark Cathedral, where film crews were setting up. At this point we are beginning to suspect we may accidentally be wandering through the background of several British TV shows.

We also walked past a replica of the Golden Hinde, the ship Sir Francis Drake sailed around the world, and the ruins of Winchester Palace, where the Bishops of Winchester once grew wealthy through businesses tied to gambling and prostitution. That history helped give the south side of London its rather rough reputation centuries ago.

The Golden Hinde
Ruins of Winchester Palace

Next we passed the site of Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre, which famously burned down in 1613 during a performance of Henry VIII before eventually being rebuilt nearby. Right about then the rain arrived, so we pulled up our hoods and made our way to the Tate Modern, housed inside a former power station. Modern art may not entirely be our thing, but it was free, dry, and home to several famous works, including Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe diptych.

When we stepped back outside, the skies had cleared, so we wandered over to the Sky Garden at the top of London’s “Cheese Grater” skyscraper. The gardens occupy the top three floors and feature tropical plants spread throughout a soaring glass atrium with incredible panoramic views across the city. We spent quite a while walking around, taking pictures, and enjoying the scenery before settling in for a drink.

We had dinner reservations at the Darwin Restaurant, located right inside the gardens, which made for a pretty memorable setting for dinner.

When we came out afterward, we discovered a beautiful evening waiting for us. One thing we have really enjoyed about England is how late the sun sets compared to Connecticut. It stays light well after 9:00 PM this time of year. With pleasant temperatures and daylight still lingering, we decided to walk the three miles back to our hotel. By the time we arrived, we had definitely walked off dinner.

It was another wonderful and very full London day.

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