DAY 16 – TUESDAY, MAY 19, 2026
This morning we were up and out again with only enough time for a quick pastry breakfast before heading to the Tube. We arrived at the Tower of London just in time for our 10:00-10:30 AM ticketed entry window.
Once inside the Tower grounds, we started our visit with a free 45-minute tour led by a Yeoman Warder, better known by the nickname “Beefeater.” The Yeoman Warders were established by King Henry VII in 1485 as royal bodyguards and guardians of prisoners. According to our guide, the nickname “Beefeater” came from the fact that while much of the population survived on modest meals of chicken or pigeon, these guards were provided with generous beef rations to keep up their strength.
Since records began in 1826, there have only been 425 Beefeaters. To qualify, applicants must be honorably retired after at least 22 years of military service and have an unblemished record. Once appointed, they and their families live within the Tower grounds. Today there are about 35 active Beefeaters (men and women) whose duties include leading tours, answering questions, and participating in the Ceremony of the Keys, the nightly locking of the Tower that has taken place for more than 700 years.
Fun fact: Beefeater Gin got its name after the company wanted to use an iconic British symbol for branding. According to our guide, the military and police declined, but the Beefeaters agreed on one condition: every Beefeater receives a complimentary bottle of gin on their birthday each year!
We thoroughly enjoyed the tour, although it turned out to be less of a walking tour and more of a storytelling session about the Tower’s history. Our Beefeater guide was fantastic. He spoke loudly enough for the huge crowd to hear, and he was animated, personable, and genuinely funny. His commentary blended humor with plenty of fascinating history.
After the tour, we spent a little time visiting the famous ravens that live on the Tower grounds. Legend says that if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the monarchy will fall. To prevent that possibility, eight ravens are kept there at all times. They are extremely well cared for, although their wings are clipped so they cannot fly far away.
Next, we toured the White Tower, the iconic central building of the complex. Inside we saw displays of armor and weaponry, along with several chilling artifacts, including an execution block and axe. On an upper floor we visited St. John’s Chapel, one of the oldest surviving church interiors in London.
We then joined the line to see the Crown Jewels. Unfortunately photography is not allowed, so you will have to trust us on this one. That is some serious bling! Kings and queens definitely earned a workout carrying the enormous crowns, scepters, orbs, and elaborate ceremonial robes.
We also explored the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, where three British queens are buried, the Beauchamp Tower with its haunting prisoner carvings etched into the stone walls, and the Bloody Tower, infamous as the final home of the two young princes whose remains were discovered centuries later. Spoiler alert: history strongly suggests their uncle had them killed so he could take the throne himself.
Before leaving, we walked along part of the medieval wall, which offered excellent views of the much newer Tower Bridge, completed in 1894. Altogether, it was a fascinating morning packed with centuries of sometimes gruesome history.
By the time we left, it was nearly 2:00 PM and we were very hungry. We crossed London Bridge to the Bankside area and made our way to Borough Market, a massive food market filled with cheesemongers, fish stalls, butchers, bakeries, and food vendors from around the world. Greg went with paella while Karen chose wild mushroom risotto. Both were excellent.
After lunch we were fortified enough to tackle another Rick Steves walking tour. Along the way we passed Southwark Cathedral, where film crews were setting up. At this point we are beginning to suspect we may accidentally be wandering through the background of several British TV shows.
We also walked past a replica of the Golden Hinde, the ship Sir Francis Drake sailed around the world, and the ruins of Winchester Palace, where the Bishops of Winchester once grew wealthy through businesses tied to gambling and prostitution. That history helped give the south side of London its rather rough reputation centuries ago.
Next we passed the site of Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre, which famously burned down in 1613 during a performance of Henry VIII before eventually being rebuilt nearby. Right about then the rain arrived, so we pulled up our hoods and made our way to the Tate Modern, housed inside a former power station. Modern art may not entirely be our thing, but it was free, dry, and home to several famous works, including Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe diptych.
When we stepped back outside, the skies had cleared, so we wandered over to the Sky Garden at the top of London’s “Cheese Grater” skyscraper. The gardens occupy the top three floors and feature tropical plants spread throughout a soaring glass atrium with incredible panoramic views across the city. We spent quite a while walking around, taking pictures, and enjoying the scenery before settling in for a drink.
We had dinner reservations at the Darwin Restaurant, located right inside the gardens, which made for a pretty memorable setting for dinner.
When we came out afterward, we discovered a beautiful evening waiting for us. One thing we have really enjoyed about England is how late the sun sets compared to Connecticut. It stays light well after 9:00 PM this time of year. With pleasant temperatures and daylight still lingering, we decided to walk the three miles back to our hotel. By the time we arrived, we had definitely walked off dinner.
It was another wonderful and very full London day.
Hammond Adventures 